New Coils For An Old ELTO

[Monte NZ]

Buc, thanks for your kind words.

I housed them in a piece of plastic (ABS) downpipe. The pipe here in NZ is metric, so I got a piece of 100 mill diameter (approx 4 inches) and split it down one side and rolled it into 2 inch diameter and then cut off the excess, which I  used to reinforce the joint on the inside of the tube.

The overall length of the tube including caps is 6 1/4inches.

The wall thickness is 2mil (about 1/16th inch). I glued it  with Araldite (two tube epoxy glue) and I held it in the correct diameter, while the epoxy set, with 4 nylon ties.

The ends were made out of  3 laminations of flat ABS glued together, which after cutting out roughly by hand, I put in the lathe and turned them to fit……..the outer layer was machined to fit flush with the outside diameter……..same as the original coils.

I used 1/4inch countersunk brass screws to hold the end caps………3 at each end like the original.

After the glue had set, I bored a series of 1/8th inch holes either side of the joint over the length of the tube and filled the holes with epoxy forming a series of “epoxy rivets” to strengthen it.

 

Tubs, I thought you would be interested to see the positioning of the coils……..needless to say that I was delighted to see the system works!!!

Thanks again boys for your interest and help……..much appreciated!!

Monte NZ

PS I will put some more photos up when I can get some more help from my “computer wiz” friend.

[Monte NZ]

Here are some  more shots ( hopefully!)of the coil setup

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pVG4x3qYBF9xFZh86

If this works, I will send some more.

Monte NZ

[Monte NZ]

Here are some more shots that may show my method……….the screws were only used temporarily

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UPUe6N1iiSSUwF1z6

Monte NZ

PS If you can access 2 inch plastic pipe in the states ( as long as the tube wall thickness is about 1/16 inch, or not much more) it would be easy to do what I have done.

[The Boat House]

I used a piece of our PVC for a coil tube.
I found the white offensive but couldn’t get paint to stick.
The boss had this vinyl contact paper to line shelved with.
Gas & oil have removed the wood grain pattern so its just
a solid brown now but its still on there years later and its
seen a lot of use.
Nice job on the end caps by the way!!!!!
Tubs.

[Monte NZ]

Tub’s, that’s very effective, using that contact. I sprayed  plastic primer prior to painting the black and it seems to have helped with abrasion resistance.

Your tube looks a very tidy setup. By the way, I made a mistake …….the tube I used was PVC not ABS.  ABS was what I used on the ends caps and thanks for the complements…….they took a little bit of making.  The whole job would certainly been a lot quicker and easier if I could have got 2 inch tube!

Monte NZ

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

Just an FYI,

I still 3d print housings, inserts and end caps that resolve 95% of these issues. total of 5 pcs.

Assembly is easy, wiring is easy and best of all no need to fill the tube with anything other than your components.

I can easily be taken apart should a component need replacing.

Colors are black and brown but if you want another color, that can be accomplished as well…

Photos available upon request.

$50 plus shipping to your door and I ship worldwide.

 

Regards

 

Richard

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[Monte NZ]

Thanks Richard for your post. What you are offering sounds great and I’m sure it would be a big help and save a lot of time compared with what I had to do.

Unfortunately, as I have mentioned in a previous post,  NZ, being just about at the bottom of the world, results in the shipping costs are very expensive.

A recent example……. a friend ordered a replacement coil for his Ruddertwin from Big Rich. The coil only cost $15.00 US  ( approx $25 NZ). It then cost $70.00 shipping to NZ. which is crazy………total cost $95.00!

Kind regards and thanks again for the info.
Monte NZ

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

There is no country in the world that I have shipped any of my tools to that was THAT expensive…I have shipped to many places in Europe as well as Australia… Nothing over $35 for shipping..

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[jeff-register]

Those Bendix dual fire coils I used in a KF7 Bendix magneto. Soldering to the terminals was easy. Like others I  tinned the wire first, cleaned the soldering tip, dipped in soldering flux & it smoked a little but the flux removes any impure materials, then melted a drop of solder on the tip, & held the tinned wire on top of the terminal, then applyed the heat on TOP of the wire. The melted solder on the tip transferred the heat fast to the wire & the terminal reducing the time & heat to the coil terminal.

Tubs: bolting the lams together is the same electrical connection as bolting two coils to a magneto plate, same same. We used dual fire coils from e bay & moved the nubs (Hi volt terminals to fit our use using 14 gauge wire wrapped around the coil to clock them correctly. First we used very thin fiberglass matting cloth found at hobby shops used for makiing radio controlled engine bulkheads on aircraft as an insulater, then applyed Super Corona Dope, then another layer of thin fiberglass cloth over the wire for more insulating. Did the same for the second terminal which then became the secondary winding ground. We ended up using a dual fire coil to run one cylinder for a much hotter spark as the dual fire has more secondary windings. This worked very  well & was much less money than Bendix coil replacements (When they were still around) The people  at Johns Old Mercury site didn’t believe us at first till a video was shown. I stumbled on the thin fiberglass cloth looking at hobby shops on line. We used fiberglass (C) channel to support 480 volt service sections in the field for metering sections @ 400 amps so I knew the glass colth was a great insulator. Corona Dope came from M.G. Chenicals on line. It was made to keep the scanning beam in a cathode ray tube from arcing to  ground as the flyback transformer made very high voltage. It is rated at 35000 volts & liiks like clear fingernail polish. It was called corona dope but M.G, chemicals changed the name to insulating varnish. Something about the word “DOPE” they didn’t like anymore. In the 50’s it was OK & had a different meaning!! (To fix or repair)

[wbeaton]

Great solution you found, Monte. Glad to see another ELTO saved.

Wayne
Upper Canada Chapter

uccaomci.com

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