Shift Lever Removal

[benj]

I recently added a 67 CD-24S to my collection that has a broken shift lever. I have a replacement ready, but I’ve yet to figure out how to remove the old one. I have the power head off to extract some broken bolts, and have taken off the pan as well. So how do I go about removing the broken shift lever?

Thanks in advance,

-Ben

[crosbyman]

screw 25 ??

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

• This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by Mumbles.

[frankr]

Remove screw 25 is correct. But caution with the screw out, the inner lever #24 is fragile. Slide the broken lever out and the new one in trying not to rotate them.

[Mumbles]

Screw #25 is the one.

If the motor has been used in salt water, it might be impossible to remove it without breaking it off, even with lots of heat. When that happens, I melt the small shift arm off with a torch and replace it. Hopefully yours will come out easy.

[benj]

I have screw 25 removed. I suspect corrosion or old grease is making the lever difficult to remove. I also think the lever broke because of the corrosion/old grease. I can get the lever to rotate after some WD40 and a pair of vice grips, it was solid before that. This motor had gasket maker applied to the power head gasket and other places, along with a removed thermostat, and a lower unit from a later model 6hp. It’s a bit of a project, that’s for sure!

[fleetwin]

Are you sure the screw came out whole, and that there is not a piece broken off still in place? If the screw is removed completely, just use a few small screwdrivers to gently pry the shift lever loose from the shift handle/shaft…
Post pictures of what you have if there is still issues…
While that powerhead is off, please be sure to check all the lower crankshaft seal components that should be in place in the driveshaft…These pieces are often omitted/mixed up, which will result in premature powerhead damage from water intrusion…

[billw]

Like Frank says, part number 24 is very easily broken and cannot take a joke, AT ALL. In our land of salt, the shift levers would get frozen like yours, then break off, from the owners forcing them. Probably two thirds of the time, number 24 would either break during removal, be found cracked already or break when trying to reassemble it. I remember even thirty years ago, they seemed like a lot of money, for what they were. Good luck….

Long live American manufacturing!

[benj]

I have #25 removed intact. I may have referred to the wrong part as the “shift lever”. #19 is what is stuck and broken off, #24 is in good shape from what I can tell. #19 rotates back and forth with now, but requires some force. I haven’t tried heat yet, and have some Aerokroil waiting on me at home to help un freeze things. I’ll see if I can get some photos this evening.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by benj.

[Mumbles]

You are correct, #19 is the shift lever and #24 is the shift rod lever.

There is a grease fitting in the end of the shift lever which seldom gets any grease allowing corrosion to build up inside. This causes the shifter to be stiff. The shift lever itself is brittle and will break easy if forced or if the motor is laid down on the shifter side. Applying lots of heat will help to remove the broken shifter.

Broken shifters on the six horse motors are quite common and I wish I had a photo for every repair I’ve seen. Some are completely haywire while others have been thought out quite well. A while back, I took some broken shift levers, cut some aluminum, and welded them up to more closely resemble the original. Not exactly correct but they all work.

[frankr]

Somebody mentioned broken shifter levers caused by laying the motor on that side. I think that probably is the most common cause I’ve seen. Most common “repair”? A pair of Vise Grips.

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