Home Forum Ask A Member ’57 Golden Javelin – fuel consumption question

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  • #78586
    nj-boatbuilder57
    Participant

      Thanks to all..!!!

      Watching the needle nosedive is depressing, but you’re right: how much gas am I really burning during my (short) boating summer? 80? More? Less? Certainly not enough to justify the cost of a different engine. And, also true, I can work on this one myself….can’t say that about more modern engines.

      And it runs good and it’s a real head-turner, too!

      What’s not to love, right? Just have to be careful not to run out while in the middle of the lake….

      #78587
      garry-in-michigan
      Participant

        Lifetime Member

        Look at it this way. The antique outboards of the 1930s came from the factory with a built in fuel tank that would run the motor about an hour at wide open throttle. (This varies by boat design and load.) A 5.4 horse Zephyr held 7/8 of a gallon, a 9.7 horse Lightfour held 1-1/4 gallons, a 22 horse Speeditwin held 2-1/-2 gallons, a 33 horse Speedifour held 4 gallons. (Same tank was used on the 50 HP Big Four & Racing 460) Our Big Four got about an hour and fifteen minutes on a tank. Plotting a course around the lake, I was getting a little over 13miles to the gallon.

        I recall getting around 3 hours on our 25 horse Big Twin. I felt that that was about right. We had three tanks, two in the boat and one on the dock. We usually ran 3 or 4 hours after breakfast, then stop for lunch, then wait an hour to let lunch settle and then go out again. If the weather was nice, we came in when it started to get dark.

        Dad had gotten two telephone poles. one was cut in half and set in concrete with about 5 feet sticking out. The other pole was mounted between them and held in place with a couple lengths of 1-1/4" pipe. A ten foot 2X4 was bolted to a notch five feet down from top of the pole and four lights were mounted on it forming a square. A flood light was mounted about half way down to aluminate the dock. When lit at night it looked from the lake like a bright light over a dim light. We could always find our way home . . . 😆

        #78604
        lindy46
        Participant

          US Member

          My 1957 Lark would guzzle the gas at wide open. Back it off to 3/4 throttle and it was much more economical. I used it for fishing and it would run forever trolling at 2-3mph.

          #78607
          frankr
          Participant

            US Member

            I’ve owned and ran a number of 25-40 hp motors back in "The Day", fishing, cruising, skiing, whatever. As best as I remember (??), they will run a bit less than 2 hours on a tankfull, while skiing. Hey, a 50hp could suck up about 8 GPH.

            #78608
            nj-boatbuilder57
            Participant

              Good info…thanks to all!

              A long as this particular engine model isn’t anomolistic vis-à-vis other vintage 35HP engines, I’m fine with it. Just need to keep an extra tank on the boat & a few cans at the camp (there’s no gas available on the lake….).

              #78612
              Anonymous

                You might try a 10 1/2 x 11 prop. It might be the motor is not up to the max. rpm at wot. It may be lugging with a 10 1/2 x 12 prop and using more fuel and running slower at wot.

                #78615
                auldscott
                Participant

                  US Member - 2 Years

                  Echoing others’ replies: beautiful rig! There is a simple formula for fuel consumption in two-stroke motors: one gallon per hour per 10 horsepower. On that basis, your Javelin will use 3.5 gph at full throttle. Some motors will use more: Fat-Fiftys are notorious, and my 1954 Sea King 12 had an indicated run time of 1 hour on its 2 gallon internal tank. The advice to pull back on the throttle a little is sound: a small increase in speed on the water requires a much larger increase in power. Some motors have a linkage that leaves the magneto at full advance but closes the throttle butterfly somewhat.

                  #78616
                  outbdnut2
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    When you run at 3/4 throttle, it’s important to push it to wide open and then back off to 3/4 – this backs off the carb but not the spark advance. The owner’s manual refers to this as "Cruising speed". The 40s from back then worked the same way. If you just run it up to 3/4 without going to WOT first you will use more gas.

                    If you get the newer design 35 HP, beginning in 1976, you will have better mileage, but the low end torque is not there for planeing the boat and pulling up skiers, especially noticeable on heavy boats like most wood and glass ones. These motors have smaller cylinders.

                    Like the others said, be sure you have the optimum propeller pitch for your use and load.

                    Back in the day on Dad’s old 14′ aluminum Crestliner, we used more gas running a 1956 30 HP and later a 1960 40 HP than when the 40 was replaced with a 1965 V4-60 HP. The 30 and 40 were running at WOT almost all the time pulling skiers, while the 60 loafed along at about 2/3 throttle doing the same thing. The V4 60 was heavy for the boat and screwed up handling some, so it was no longer a boat we could let anyone drive.
                    Dave

                    #78636
                    nj-boatbuilder57
                    Participant
                      quote XR55:

                      You might try a 10 1/2 x 11 prop. It might be the motor is not up to the max. rpm at wot. It may be lugging with a 10 1/2 x 12 prop and using more fuel and running slower at wot.

                      I’m certainly up for trying different props…what kind of a gearhead would I be if I didn’t want to tinker? 😀

                      Would 1/2" of pitch make a difference? I see there’s a 385955 (Michigan 012023) that’s 10-3/8 x 11-1/2, but I can’t find an 11" pitch for this engine.

                      I found this: 377978 which is 10-1/8 x 11, but I’m not sure it fits this engine.

                      Anyone have any prop suggestions?

                      Mark

                      #78645
                      outbdnut2
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        Here are some more prop options at reasonable prices, but still not an 11 inch:

                        http://propcopropellers.com/evinrude—johnson.html

                        Wood boats are generally heavy compared to Aluminum and require a lower pitch prop for optimum performance

                        1 inch makes a big difference in performance, so 1/2 inch will be noticable. Note that as pitch goes up (unless it goes too high), top speed goes up, RPM comes down, but low end planeing and pulling up skiers and tubers suffers.

                        I recommend you find what RPM you are running at at wide open throttle now, compare that to the specified operating RPM that’s on the HP rating ID plate. You want to stay within that recommended range. There are portable tune up tachs that can be temporarily connected by clipping a wire around the outside of a spark plug wire without making a direct electrical connection.

                        Another suggestion – have you tried all the positions of the trim pin? One notch higher on the trim pin can get a lot more of the boat up and out of the water, reducing drag and increasing fuel economy. Run the pin as high as you can without the boat bouncing while going straight or cavitating (losing it’s grip and revving up) on corners. Having as much weight at the rear as possible also lets the boat ride higher, so if you r gas tank is under the front deck, consider moving it to the rear.
                        Dave

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