Home Forum Ask A Member Got My Separation Finalised Today……

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  • #10275
    Mumbles
    Participant

      The Merc 200 separation that is! With a good sleep and some ingenuity, it came apart! Yeee-Haww!!! 😀 😀 😀

      There’s probably some special tool Merc has to press the swivel pin out with but I made one. It’s just a snug fitting piece of round stock with a piece welded on the side. It just fits thru the bottom into the pin and the piece welded on does all the work as it just grabs the edge of the pin. Lots of heat and the 12 ton press broke it free and as it went thru, I had to add longer and longer pieces of 5/8 bar onto the tool to get the depth. It was so hot the housing started to melt in one place. In a way it’s good the paint was scorched off as I see a crack starting in the grease nipple area which will need fixing. If I was tooled up properly, I would definitely ream the housings out for Delrin bushings to prevent it from seizing again!


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      #78106
      seakaye12
      Participant

        US Member

        Impressive work; the fact that you’ve never worked on one of those before doesn’t seem to hinder you one bit 🙂

        On mine…..it swivels easily (too easily) but will not tilt at all. Well; if I use a long pry bar I can get it to move a bit but it is essentially still stuck hard.

        The two large 1.25" bolts on each side of the transom clamp are loose; should I be able to knock that shaft out fairly easily? It sure ain’t budging and I don’t want to break something. I look at the parts diagram and there doesn’t seem to be anything holding it in there except for the bolt at each end.

        Chuck

        #78108
        dave-bernard
        Participant

          US Member

          heat the clamps and it will move. and yes it should just slide out BUT don’t worry about it just get things moving.

          #78110
          Mumbles
          Participant

            Hey Chuck, only one of my clamps was tight and while I had the torch out, I heated it and managed to break it free after cutting the clamp bracket stud in half. The tilt tube can stay in place as I’ll polish the ends of it with a strip of emery and the bores in the clamps will get cleaned up with a small hone. I used the hone in the swivel tube bracket and saddle bores and now the swivel tube slides right in. I’ll be sure to make up some new friction pads for the co-pilot or else the motor will be jumping around like a wounded fish when it’s running!

            #78115
            seakaye12
            Participant

              US Member

              OK Mumbles…….So….my clamp bracket stud is also removed…..and like I say I can use a pry bar and the brackets will barely move.

              But….when they do move…..should they rotate AROUND the tilt tube…..or should the entire tilt tube rotate inside of its cavity?

              And….where to apply the heat; around the bracket itself or the threaded extensions? How much heat? I only have a MAP hand-held torch. Doubt it will be enough.

              #78119
              Mumbles
              Participant
                quote Seakaye12:

                But….when they do move…..should they rotate AROUND the tilt tube…..or should the entire tilt tube rotate inside of its cavity?

                Good question. Usually, the transom clamps rotate on the tube but since Merc tended to do things opposite to the industry standard, it could be the other way around! But then again, the tube must remain fixed as that is what a steering cable fastens to.

                For heat, try to heat the clamp as that will expand its bore.

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