Frank,
No. I only used the tachometer to help with diagnosing the issue.
Because I suspected one cylinder wasn’t working right. I used the tach to figure out if I was right and which one wasn’t working right.
The #s off the lower plug wire were way lower than the top.
800 plus or minus vs 400 plus or minus.
At idle, in gear.
I have another power pack.
Should I put it on and take back to the lake? Again.
Tell me I’m way off base, but could something be wrong with cylinder head? Head gasket? Or the other gasket (it has the water jacket head covering). Maybe water getting into that lower cylinder and thus preventing it from firing as it should?
My bother in law suggested stuck reed valve. Any chance?
Thanks for your help
G

Fleet,
Now that you ask, no, the engine does not sound like it is misfiring. It sounds good!
When I started it in the test tank prior to the first trip out, I thought it was golden!
Only when I throttled up did I become aware of an issue. It simply wouldn’t go as it should have. And nothing I’ve done since then has changed anything.
And yes, I am wary of the tachometer and hate putting so much into its readings, specially since I don’t even know that I’m using it right (I am though).
I don’t have a video now, but I’ll take it out again soon and record what happens (or doesn’t).
And, I will go over the economize linkage again.
And I’ll double check in the manual to make sure I’m setting it correctly.
But I’m pretty sure it’s set up right.
I have a ‘58 35 horse that I run a lot and so have a little experience with them. Thanks to FrankS posting awhile back! It’s basically the same set up on the ‘79.
I was with my bro in law that first run, and I immediately said , “it’s the fuel saver linkage!” That was my gut. But I’ve checked it. A few times.
I feel really dumb.
G

Okay, home from work and checking things out. First, make sure blue snappy spark jumps 3/8”.
Next, check reeds. I hope just looking through intake with a good light is sufficient. Should I gingerly push on each leaf with a long q-tip to make sure it isn’t stuck?
And wow, the carb does indeed spit back!
The plug in the air box was off and I could feel it on my arm as I ran it.
Then make sure carb is synchronized with mag. Then re-do economizer link.
As far as economizer link goes, I did notice that at full fast position of tiller grip both spark and throttle are at full open or maxed out. If I twist grip a little towards slow, both mag plate and throttle move, simultaneously.
This is unlike my ‘58 where there is a point at which mag is fully advanced and then a little more twist to fast and throttle is WO. Then when twisted towards slow, throttle closes a little first, then mag moves.
I’ll look into the operation of the later model economizers.
Then what?
Those things are easy.
Maybe recheck the carb for debris. Oh yea, I read that the fat doughnut gasket, with the clover leaf hole that goes on the tube inside DOES effect high speed performance. Contrary to what I’ve been told.
I’ll replace that to be safe.
All that done, if the problem persists?
Slap a new power pack on and hope?
Is there any credence in the idea that water may be entering the lower cylinder via a bad gasket thus preventing that cylinder from working as it should?
I read another forum thread that dealt with the same problem I’m having. Turned out to be a bad wire. It worked most of the time (at idle) but then would ground out or something when throttled up.
All my wires are good.
Thanks again for the help.
G