Home Forum Ask A Member 1918 Evinrude Model A info

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  • #247407
    Isnork
    Participant

      So, I just acquired what looks to be a fully restored Evinrude motor. The serial is: 101170 From the short research I’ve done, I found this website:
      https://www.thebrazilianconnection.com/evinrudeID.html

      From that serial, it looks to be a Model A built in 1918. I’d most appreciate someone confirming the info. I’ll upload some pics…I found a serial on what I think is called the transom (the mechanical part that holds the motor to the boat.

      I have so much to learn about this motor and even how to fire it up. I am well versed to some degree in 2-4 storke engines basic operation etc., but I have so many questions on steps needed to help me get this motor running and not harm it. If anyone is willing to hold my hand, I’d be most grateful.

      #247412
      PM T2
      Participant

        Canada Member

        what you show in that picture is a 1936 Evinrude Fisherman. I’d bet the model number is 4148. There should be a model number plate on the transom bracket and there will be an 8-digit number stamped into it.

        That motor is rated as 4.4 hp. They are smooth runners and some consider them to be desirable because of the amount of brass used for the lower unit and exhaust parts.

        EDIT – the number in the transom bracket is just a casting or part number, and not a serial number, so that list you’re using isn’t any good to you

        Hope this helps.

        Best,
        PM T2

        He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

        • This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by PM T2.
        #247413
        PM T2
        Participant

          Canada Member

          There are several steps to undertake in making this motor run. Obviously cosmetic work has been done on it. You will need to verify the essential mechanical side of things before going any further.

          1. Compression – check the compression in each cylinder. Best to remove both spark plugs and ground the ignition wires in order to rope it over for testing it. Might help to remove the carburetor too.
          2. ignition – connect the spark plugs to each wire and rope it over with the plugs grounded against the motor. If there’s no spark, you’ll have to pull the flywheel to check things out under there.
          3. Fuel system – the gas tank, fuel pipe.. and carburetor have to all be squeaky clean.
          4. Lower unit – make sure there is grease in there. You can use Lubriplate 105 if you hafta. I prefer either Amsoil synthetic water proof grease, or something that is called Corn Head grease that you can get at a tractor dealership or farm supply store.
          5. Water pump – make sure the piston is moving up and down as the prop shaft rotates, and that the check valve in the system is not stuck and moves freely in its chamber.

          That should keep you occupied for awhile… gimme a shout if you need anything further.

          Hope it helps.

          Best,
          PM T2

          He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

          #247415
          Isnork
          Participant

            Thanks so much for the info. I’ll investigate and report back!

            #247417
            Isnork
            Participant

              Thanks for the info! – My next question would be what fuel do I use? Back then I assume it was leaded and mixed with oil and gas. Should I use non-ethonol and then mixed with a lead or lead substitute?

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