Home Forum Ask A Member 1924 Johnson A water pump

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  • #271779
    DAN UMBARGER
    Participant

      US Member

      I’m working on the gear case/water pump and have a couple of questions. Is there a specific length for the pump brass tube/cam follower? It shows signs of wear but not awful. The forward gear cam surface is badly pitted but not worn and the teeth on the pinion and forward gears look great. In dry assembling the case it looks like I have about 1/4″ or so of up/down movement on the spring loaded brass tube…is that about right? Also when I took this thing apart the water pump casting was not all the way down to the gear hsg…it was up about 1/8″but the slot head stud/jam nut on the side of the case appears to hold the water pump assy in place but how? There is a small hole in the water pump hsg that lines up with the hole for the stud…is the stud supposed to have a pin machined into the end of  it to line up with the w/p hsg? My stud has no pin on the end. I finally have the coil/heels reassembled and am ready to install new plug wires but have decided the best way to install them. Can’t wait to see if this thing will even fire up.

      #271784
      Tubs
      Participant



        Pump length – wear only occurs at the bottom.
        Issue arises if you get to where there a hole in
        it. A plug can be soldered on as a repair. A
        penny can be used as a plug. It wont last as
        long as the brass but you can replace it for a
        penny. Doesn’t sound like you are there yet.
        Look for this fastener to lock the pump in.
        Pitted cam is common. Some have machining
        capability to turn it down and press on a sleeve.
        The rest of us run them as is. I have had an A, a
        J-25, & I have a J-65 that I used one summer.
        Ran it at least 40 hours that year. The pitting on
        the cam was never an issue. Someone once
        told me that the Pitts are beneficial as they
        carry extra grease. Sounds good to me!!!
        .Tubs
        .

        A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

        • This reply was modified 2 years, 3 months ago by Tubs.
        #271791
        DAN UMBARGER
        Participant

          US Member

          Thanks Tubs, My gearcase and pump looks much the same but I have a one piece driveshaft and the hole in my pump is only 7/64 and the bolt that is in mine is a slotted stud affair with the jam nut and no pin like end…looks like a regular bolt end. Should I grind the end to a point which might slide into the hole before tightening the jam nut to lock in the pump? Or should I check with the Penns to see if they might have the correct bolt? otherwise the gearcase looks to be in good shape. Then onto finishing the magneto.

          #271793
          Tubs
          Participant



            Did some more looking.
            This is from the 1923 I had.
            The way I have the fasteners laid out would
            indicate the tapered one holds the pump.
            Tubs
            .

            A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

            #271794
            DAN UMBARGER
            Participant

              US Member

              Perfect Tubs….I’ll just grind a point on the end of my bolt…should work just fine!! Thanks for all your help 🙂

              #271795
              Tubs
              Participant


                A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

                #271804
                DAN UMBARGER
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Thanks for the gear adjustment page but at the end they tell you to fill the gear case with lubricant but not to fill it too high because it could affect the water pump…..how do you know when it’s too high…there is no vent hole is there? How do you get grease up to the upper driveshaft bushing?

                  #271854
                  Tubs
                  Participant



                    Don’t have a clear recollection of filling the
                    gear case. Likely just put in what it would
                    take to avoid over filling. Don’t know how
                    extensively you plan to use yours. I was
                    checking (let the water drain out) and adding
                    grease as needed the time I was using one
                    daily. I used how many tanks of gas I ran to
                    determine when it was time to add more. The
                    condition of the bushings dictates how often
                    that will be. Want make sure all the water is
                    out of the gear case when you’re done. The
                    screw on the side of the water pump is to drain
                    the power head. Don’t loose it as screws with
                    that thread are no longer being manufactured.
                    While wheel bearing grease will stay in there
                    longer, using 105 or corn head grease will give
                    the upper driveshaft bushing as well as the prop
                    shaft bushing the best chance of getting
                    lubricated. Search you tube for
                    “Lubriplate 105 – Corn Head Grease – in
                    Antique Outboards Without Seals”
                    If you’re not aware of the grease we use today
                    as a substitute for what is no longer available.
                    Tubs

                    A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

                    #271858
                    DAN UMBARGER
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      Thanks Tubs, not really sure how much I’ll use it either but just wanted to know the correct way to fill it. I do use the corn head grease…I bought 6 tubes a couple of years ago and use it in all my older non shifting motors. When I originally put this g/case together I did fill it with some of the new green Mercury gear oil and turned the gear case around to try to get some oil up into the bushings then drained the oil out…hopefully it will have some lubrication until the grease gets pushed up there. I did grind a point on the bolt that locks into the bottom of the pump(not a whole lot of threads left for the jam nut)…also tested the pump out by hand in my sink and it pumps some water…YEA!! Messed around about 3 hrs with the coil and heels last nite and finally got the flywheel to turn without hitting the coils but NO SPARK. Was fed up with it by then so I called it a nite.

                      #271859
                      Tubs
                      Participant



                        You say in your thread in current projects that you
                        had the coil tested and it tested good.
                        With the spark plugs out and both plug wires
                        grounded to the motor, pull the motor over as
                        fast as you can about a dozen times.
                        Then check for spark again – both plugs grounded.
                        Tubs
                        .

                        A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

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