Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1924 Johnson A water pump
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DAN UMBARGER.
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AuthorPosts
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January 26, 2023 at 12:15 am #271779
I’m working on the gear case/water pump and have a couple of questions. Is there a specific length for the pump brass tube/cam follower? It shows signs of wear but not awful. The forward gear cam surface is badly pitted but not worn and the teeth on the pinion and forward gears look great. In dry assembling the case it looks like I have about 1/4″ or so of up/down movement on the spring loaded brass tube…is that about right? Also when I took this thing apart the water pump casting was not all the way down to the gear hsg…it was up about 1/8″but the slot head stud/jam nut on the side of the case appears to hold the water pump assy in place but how? There is a small hole in the water pump hsg that lines up with the hole for the stud…is the stud supposed to have a pin machined into the end of it to line up with the w/p hsg? My stud has no pin on the end. I finally have the coil/heels reassembled and am ready to install new plug wires but have decided the best way to install them. Can’t wait to see if this thing will even fire up.
January 26, 2023 at 9:20 am #271784
Pump length – wear only occurs at the bottom.
Issue arises if you get to where there a hole in
it. A plug can be soldered on as a repair. A
penny can be used as a plug. It wont last as
long as the brass but you can replace it for a
penny. Doesn’t sound like you are there yet.
Look for this fastener to lock the pump in.
Pitted cam is common. Some have machining
capability to turn it down and press on a sleeve.
The rest of us run them as is. I have had an A, a
J-25, & I have a J-65 that I used one summer.
Ran it at least 40 hours that year. The pitting on
the cam was never an issue. Someone once
told me that the Pitts are beneficial as they
carry extra grease. Sounds good to me!!!
.Tubs.A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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This reply was modified 2 years, 3 months ago by
Tubs.
January 26, 2023 at 10:45 am #271791Thanks Tubs, My gearcase and pump looks much the same but I have a one piece driveshaft and the hole in my pump is only 7/64 and the bolt that is in mine is a slotted stud affair with the jam nut and no pin like end…looks like a regular bolt end. Should I grind the end to a point which might slide into the hole before tightening the jam nut to lock in the pump? Or should I check with the Penns to see if they might have the correct bolt? otherwise the gearcase looks to be in good shape. Then onto finishing the magneto.
January 26, 2023 at 11:01 am #271793
Did some more looking.
This is from the 1923 I had.
The way I have the fasteners laid out would
indicate the tapered one holds the pump.
Tubs.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
January 26, 2023 at 11:07 am #271794Perfect Tubs….I’ll just grind a point on the end of my bolt…should work just fine!! Thanks for all your help 🙂
January 26, 2023 at 11:09 am #271795
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
January 26, 2023 at 3:33 pm #271804Thanks for the gear adjustment page but at the end they tell you to fill the gear case with lubricant but not to fill it too high because it could affect the water pump…..how do you know when it’s too high…there is no vent hole is there? How do you get grease up to the upper driveshaft bushing?
January 27, 2023 at 10:22 am #271854
Don’t have a clear recollection of filling the
gear case. Likely just put in what it would
take to avoid over filling. Don’t know how
extensively you plan to use yours. I was
checking (let the water drain out) and adding
grease as needed the time I was using one
daily. I used how many tanks of gas I ran to
determine when it was time to add more. The
condition of the bushings dictates how often
that will be. Want make sure all the water is
out of the gear case when you’re done. The
screw on the side of the water pump is to drain
the power head. Don’t loose it as screws with
that thread are no longer being manufactured.
While wheel bearing grease will stay in there
longer, using 105 or corn head grease will give
the upper driveshaft bushing as well as the prop
shaft bushing the best chance of getting
lubricated. Search you tube for
“Lubriplate 105 – Corn Head Grease – in
Antique Outboards Without Seals”
If you’re not aware of the grease we use today
as a substitute for what is no longer available.
Tubs
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
January 27, 2023 at 10:49 am #271858Thanks Tubs, not really sure how much I’ll use it either but just wanted to know the correct way to fill it. I do use the corn head grease…I bought 6 tubes a couple of years ago and use it in all my older non shifting motors. When I originally put this g/case together I did fill it with some of the new green Mercury gear oil and turned the gear case around to try to get some oil up into the bushings then drained the oil out…hopefully it will have some lubrication until the grease gets pushed up there. I did grind a point on the bolt that locks into the bottom of the pump(not a whole lot of threads left for the jam nut)…also tested the pump out by hand in my sink and it pumps some water…YEA!! Messed around about 3 hrs with the coil and heels last nite and finally got the flywheel to turn without hitting the coils but NO SPARK. Was fed up with it by then so I called it a nite.
January 27, 2023 at 11:55 am #271859
You say in your thread in current projects that you
had the coil tested and it tested good.
With the spark plugs out and both plug wires
grounded to the motor, pull the motor over as
fast as you can about a dozen times.
Then check for spark again – both plugs grounded.
Tubs.A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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