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Well Tubs…you did it again, you must have blown some of your magic dust thru the computer…I did what you said and TADA I have spark…even squirted a little oil/gas mix in the carb mounting flange and if FIRED UP!!!!! The original condenser( the guy that said the coil was good also said the condenser was bad) was bad so I replaced it with one from an A-25 parts motor. Now I’ll clean the carb up and put the gear case back on and run it in my test tank at work. BTW…in filling the gear case with corn head grease I took out the top slot head bolt( that holds the prop shaft end cap on)and filled the gear case until the grease came out the hole then took the water pump back out and the grease didn’t completely pack that area with grease so I think that might be the way to fill these motors. Good things are coming my way I believe 🙂
Well…good things came to a screeching halt! Don’t know how I didn’t notice it before but the port cylinder has a crack in the water jacket. Appears to be above the exhaust ports so I think it’s only in the outer/exterior wall.
Found out why it cracked…pulled the water lines and they were full of rust…port cylinder didn’t seem to have the same air flow as the stbd side did so I pulled the cylinder to take it to my shop where I have a compressor that has 150 lbs of air pressure. Pulled the stbd side also because I noticed the top ring is stuck 180* from the ring locating pin, bottom ring is nice and loose. Both pistons are the same so I need to free them up. What are some thoughts on how to fix the crack after I free up the rings? I’ve had good luck repairing cracks in sterndrive blocks and manifolds using JB Weld but then I have also had stuff Brazed. I’m leaning towards JB Weld…thoughts? This is the most extensive mechanical restoration I’ve undergone to date between the mag, water pump, gear case and now this crack! I’m still stoked because It did pop off and run a few seconds. Another question…the cylinders and the driveshaft tube appear to be chrome plated…at least the plating is peeling off both the cyls and the tube. Am I correct in that thinking?
That’s a bummer. I’m sorry to hear that. J B
weld seem plausible to me. Its low pressure
and not much heat. Brazing is another
option, however the crack may grow when
you apply the heat. Best solution is another
cylinder. May have to buy a power head to
get one.
Its actually nickel. The cylinders,
driveshaft tube, steering bar, fuel line, water
lines, water pump, all the brass fittings, all
the brass fasteners, and most everything that
isn’t aluminum was nickel plated originally.
Tubs.A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
A and A25 cylinders are not interchangeable.A25,A35 and A45 are same but,A model is very different.I have fixed cracks exactly like those using automotive “stop leak”.First I put some carb cleaner/degreaser in the cylinder water jacket then used low air pressure to force cleaner through crack to clean it.Then I used water and finally stop leak using same process.Took two applications of stop leak allowing it to set up each time.Worked great both times I’ve done it.
As far as “what do most guys do” for finishes,
I can only answer as to what I have done.
The first motor I did for a friend. It was his dads
The cylinders and tank were black all of his life.
He asked for it to remain that way. The motor
spent many years in a dirt floor metal shed at their
lake cottage. It needed a parts motor. He’d
probably be surprised as to how much of his dads
motor has been replaced but it is again in running
condition.
The second came in a group of motors. Wasn’t
something I wanted to keep so I got it back in
running condition. Then I polished some, and
painted some, so I could pass it on.
The third was an early 1923 cast tank model A.
Except for the gas cap the motor was complete,
however the crankshaft was broken. Cleaning
reviled that most of the nickel remained on the
cylinders. I watch a bunch of you tube videos
on nickel plating. I’m able to do it but I don’t
have it all figured out yet. If I could figure out
where I’m going wrong it would be a pretty
simple process as far as doing brass and copper.
Tubs.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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