Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1925 elto rudder twin. Timer box
- This topic has 6 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 11 months ago by
eltoquad.
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June 21, 2021 at 12:48 pm #240840
I am needlng information on how to remove the cover of my timer box and how to set the points. I am updating my coil. Thanks in advance
June 21, 2021 at 1:12 pm #240841Should only be 2 screws to remove the cover, points are .009 thou and are in the normally open position. There are a few options for the coil, some much cleaner than others, but all work.
So what ya wanna do with the coil?http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comJune 21, 2021 at 2:19 pm #240845Thanks rick. I ordered a nos coil iff ebay. I prefer not to use the old cylinder that. The original ciil was in to avoid the mess. What optiobs are there
June 21, 2021 at 7:40 pm #240853
You Tube Video Link—–
https://youtu.be/zLS6IglCy9kA "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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This reply was modified 3 years, 11 months ago by
Tubs.
June 21, 2021 at 8:31 pm #240861Thank you. This is what i needed. My points are set close berween .009 to .010. I gave them a polish with 3000 grit wet sand paper. I will finish with a light cleaning of the box andube acotding to the infor you dent. Thanjs again
June 21, 2021 at 8:32 pm #240862Well, the absolute no mess option is that I have developed and 3D printed a tube, end caps and inserts.
The tube is the same OD and length as the original. Then end caps have holes for battery wiring, timer wiring and 9mm spark plug wire to exit.
The inserts…that is the sweetest part. The inserts are designed to hold the Military surplus 2 lug Bendix style coil and keep it from vibrating all over the housing.
It also provides a location to mount a single standard OMC condenser and allows wires to pass thru where and when needed.
The whole package can be assembled very quickly and the end caps can be glued in place and using small brass nails to hold the end caps on.
These can be made in virtually any color the the PLA, that is the material used to print the parts. But I try to keep black and a light brown that is close to the original, but alas not perfect.
I also make the same setup out of ABS and the color is amazingly close, but that is MUCH harder to print.If interested, shoot me an email.
classicomctools@gmail.comhttp://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comJune 22, 2021 at 8:09 am #240896I’ve always adjusted my Elto points with shims under the screw head like the factory did. Lossening those two screws , I think, could get points out of being parallel to each other. Also if point gap measures .005″ you just need to add 4 to 5 thousands shim.
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This reply was modified 3 years, 11 months ago by
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