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PM T2.
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January 27, 2026 at 11:25 am #303937
Just picked this up at a meet…
1925 Super Elto “J” Model. Tank is in very nice condition, other than obvious rust. I will blast all of that off once it warms up a bit.
Wondering a good starting point for this one. The gear case was kind of a mess, and I thought it was completely thrashed. I took the prop off to find it was only the prop shaft seal that had gone bad.
I would like to restore/polish this one back to looking cherry, and any advice would be great.
I have ordered a military coil and I have some OMC standard condensers, so I will be rebuilding the coil. I presume it is bad, have not tested it yet however.
Does anyone have any advice on the prop shaft seal? Not sure where I am going to find one.
The timer is also very damaged, when I pulled the flywheel the timer ring was broken, and so was the casting where the rotating mechanism is held.

This is the damaged timer, but the points seem to click when I manually spin the rotorFront view of the motor. Seems to be in nice shape for being 100 years old.
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1921 Elto Light Twin F
1950 Mercury KF-7
1951 Mercury KG-7
1959 Mercury Mark 6AJanuary 27, 2026 at 5:02 pm #303955I’ve got a timer. Complete. I haven’t reassembled it, but it’s all there. I also have the coil tube, aftermarket coil, condenser and have remade the tube ends to match the originals.
Great YouTube video from the Canadian antique outboard group showing how to rebuild the coils. I’m working on shims for the point adjustment. Bit of a trick to get them setup right. Once you do, they work like a champ.
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January 27, 2026 at 7:58 pm #303959Aidan,
I have a timer that you can have. No guarantees but you can use it for parts. I will bring it Friday if you want it.
David Bartlett
Pine Tree Boating Club Chapter"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
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January 27, 2026 at 9:17 pm #303962FWIW you have a model J there which would be a 1927 motor. There are big differences between the 1925 model C and the 1927 “J”.
These motors do not have an oil seal on the propshaft. They depend on the fit between the shaft and the supporting bushing to keep the grease in and the water out. I can’t tell if yours has some kind of clamp around the propshaft or if its part of the original housing that is broken away from the rest, so you’ll have to figure that part out. If something is broken off, then you’ll either need to weld it back together or find a replacement leg for it.
The timer bushing is shot, so that will need to be replaced. There’s at least one club member (Dustin Greene from Indiana) who sells reproduction bushings made of aluminum. The quality is quite good so maybe hit him up for a new one.
CARL!! – In case you read this, earlier today you emailed me pictures of a timer. If thats the timer you mentioned in your post up above, it won’t work on Aiden’s motor because you have a Speedster timer and it won’t work on the model J. It might fit on his motor, but it won’t work for the simple reason that I’ve already proven that mixing and matching Speedster timers and Ruddertwin flywheels creates more problems than it solves.
Best,
PM T2He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
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January 27, 2026 at 9:57 pm #303967
I’ve got a timer. Complete. I haven’t reassembled it, but it’s all there. I also have the coil tube, aftermarket coil, condenser and have remade the tube ends to match the originals.
Great YouTube video from the Canadian antique outboard group showing how to rebuild the coils. I’m working on shims for the point adjustment. Bit of a trick to get them setup right. Once you do, they work like a champ.
I gave up trying to make those shin washers. Found that if you loosen the 2 screws of the stationary contact there is enough movement to set the point gap.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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January 27, 2026 at 10:05 pm #303968
I know it looks really bad Aidan, but once you clean it up I think you’ll find that all you’ll need is a replacement bushing.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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January 28, 2026 at 8:30 am #303975Thanks, Tubs.
Just noticed the spider in there… I will give it a shot at cleaning it up
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1921 Elto Light Twin F
1950 Mercury KF-7
1951 Mercury KG-7
1959 Mercury Mark 6AJanuary 28, 2026 at 8:31 am #303976PM,
I cleaned up the contact surface between the seal and the lower leg, and it is all completely intact. The casting is complete with no breaks or cracking, it is just the seal itself that fell apart. I have all of the parts, but it is badly cracked.
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1921 Elto Light Twin F
1950 Mercury KF-7
1951 Mercury KG-7
1959 Mercury Mark 6AJanuary 28, 2026 at 8:34 am #303977January 28, 2026 at 11:22 am #303984Thank you, I figured the date off of the patent dates on the tank. 1927 sounds right from what I have read. I am going off of the Canada Chapter’s guide on rebuilding the coil, and advice from the April 2006 issue of AO.
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1921 Elto Light Twin F
1950 Mercury KF-7
1951 Mercury KG-7
1959 Mercury Mark 6A -
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