1929 Caille model 12 cooling issues

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  • August 7, 2025 at 5:36 pm #298782
    MHarrington
    Participant

      US Junior Member

      Hello,

      I have a 1929 Caille model 12 with the 5 speed prop.  I put it up at the beginning of the year running and cooling pretty good but I’ve pulled it out ever month or 2 and ran it to keep it in good running shape.  Every time I’ve pulled it out this year though it has given me a issue with cooling the port side of the motor specifically.  A couple of the times it was just plugged up with a little piece of rust I believe because I would blow air into the cylinder jug and it would be fine other times I would have to disassemble and clean the water pump for some reason.  this time I pull of the water supply line to the port side and its pumping but not very good and the starboard side is staying cool but it doesn’t have any water coming from the pee hole.  when I pull the water supply line from the port side water come out of the jug but only about half of the water jacket is filled.  I can blow air threw it and see some water coming out the pee hole when I do that.  I have had this issue for a while and I’m getting tired of it.  Does anyone know what could cause this?  My best guess is that the water pumps brass piston is worn out or something of that sort because its pushing some but not a lot of water.

      August 7, 2025 at 6:15 pm #298783
      joecb
      Participant

        US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

        Hello MH, I suspect, as you have observed, that there are bits/ chunks of rust circulating about the cylinder jackets and water tubes.  The only thing I would suggest is blowing and flushing the cooling jackets AFTER you remove all the tubing AND the fittings from the cylinders. Air blow might be most effective with jacket passages completely dry (wear eye protection). As a last resort remove the core (“freeze”) plugs and repeat the cleaning.

        Also, when removing the threaded fittings from the cylinder jacket closely observe how far into the colling passage the fitting extends. Sometimes the fitting will screw in so far that it comes very close to the inner cylinder wall severely restricting or blocking water flow. If this is found, shorten the threaded portion of the fitting.

        Joe B

        August 7, 2025 at 8:03 pm #298785
        Tubs
        Participant

           

          My suggestion would be to take the cylinder off, and block one side. Fill the water jacket with Evapo-rust. I’d give it a few days at least.  It would be helpful if you could get the cyl. up to around 100 degrees. If the level does drop, that would indicate you have broken through the blockage. Fill the cylinder again and give the Evapo-rust a few more days to dissolve the rust in the blocked area. It may not drop if the Evapo-rust is working from both sides. If you can’t get through the blockage you may need to remove the core plugs..   

           

          A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

          August 7, 2025 at 10:20 pm #298786
          PM T2
          Participant

            Canada Member

            If there is rust blocking the passage of water in the jackets, just having water get to it will help soften it up. For that reason, I don’t necessarily agree that blowing them out with compressed air when dry is the better approach. I’ve unclogged these things with the motor running by letting the water do the work for me, but its not easy to explain and best demonstrated live.

            As Joe suggested, I agree with taking the motor far enough apart to remove the elbows out of the cylinder castings. You have to be careful doing it, but it needs to get done. The reason I say that is because some rust flakes are too large to be able to pass through the elbows plus work their way through the plumbing.

            The Model 12 cooling system requires attention in other areas. If you lose too much water at the pump area due to leakage, it won’t be able to supply the engine properly. The main water tube moves up and down inside the water pump gland nut and packing, and the packing can break down and leak. I’ve had a couple where the packing was rotted so bad it couldn’t be re-used so I just put a rubber O-ring in its place and it worked fine. And when you’re looking at the water pump, verify that the check valve in the pump is working and not loaded up with grease from the lower unit (it happens). The pump piston can also wear to the point that too much water leaks around it instead of getting pushed up to the powerhead.

            Hope this helps.

            Best,
            PM T2

            He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

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