Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1931 Elto 401 Lightweight
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Tubs.
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June 24, 2025 at 3:58 am #297551
Regarding the questions about the motor itself, and leaving the battery topic out since its been more than adequately covered…..
The model 401 Lightweight was produced in 1931 as the successor to the folding Lightweight of 1929-30 and the non-folding Special Lightweight model 360 that was only briefly produced in early 1931. I would say that I’ve seen more of the model 401’s in my time than any other version of the Elto Lightweight series. The model 360 Special Lightweight used the same 3.5 hp powerhead as the earlier folding motor, but the 401 used an updated 4 hp engine to power it. The model 360 and model 401 used the same transom bracket, leg, and lower unit. The model 401 used two different ignition systems, with the earlier Atwater-Kent timer being used until motor #1999, after which the ignition was revised to what I refer to as the Evinrude-Elto timer and spark coil. Both systems used a battery as the power source. I’ve attached scans of the Starting and Operating Instructions for both styles of ignition for reference.
The model 401 isn’t particularly rare. At one point last winter I had four or five of them laying around. They’re probably still here if they didn’t sprout legs and paws that would enable them to walk away. There is a correct way to wire them up and it involves connecting a battery wire to the stud on the tiller handle. The spring-loaded button on the end of the tiller acts as a kill switch but it can’t work if the battery connections aren’t done properly. Hope this helps.
Best,
PM T2,
Elto Special Interest Group LeaderHe's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
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June 24, 2025 at 12:44 pm #297562PM T2,
Thank you, this is all very valuable information. I am planning on fully restoring mine. It is in good condition, and turns over. I will have to order a battery either today or tomorrow. Do you know what mixture the 401 likes to run on? I am guessing 8:1 or 16:1, but I would rather be safe than sorry.
Thanks,
Aidan
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1921 Elto Light Twin
1947 Evinrude Ranger
1956 Johnson JW-12R
1934 Johnson "F"June 24, 2025 at 8:46 pm #297575You can run it on either one. You’re safe at 16:1 because the original specification is 1/2 pint of oil per gallon of gasoline, which is what equates to 16:1. I run mine about that or even a little richer @ 12:1, I use Amsoil synthetic which evidence suggests means I can run it leaner if I wanted to, but as a rule I never run any of my antiques any leaner than 20:1. Some Lockwood and Elto models have to be as rich as 8:1 and sometimes I even mix up some 6:1 fuel, depending on what kind of mood I happen to be in that day.
‘Ope dis ‘elp dare eh
Best,
PM T2He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
1 user thanked author for this post.
June 24, 2025 at 9:59 pm #297579I got my first Folding Lightweight in 2004. I now have 4 of them. I always run 3 oz per gal.(42 to 1) of biodegradable, full synthetic, in all of them. Not a recommendation, Only my experience.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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June 25, 2025 at 8:04 am #297581I will most likely go with the 16:1 suggestion. Do you know any decent in-store places that I can find the Amsoil? I assume it is TCW-3, but I have never run it before.
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1921 Elto Light Twin
1947 Evinrude Ranger
1956 Johnson JW-12R
1934 Johnson "F"June 25, 2025 at 11:08 am #297583I started using Amsoil in the 1970’s. Then there was one bottle for everything. I’d mix 5 gallons at a time at 100 to 1 and ran it in my dirt bikes and chain saw. I’ve been a fan of synthetic’s ever since. Conventional oil has come a long way, but it was garbage back then. It was the early 2000’s when I learned about the Pennzoil. I switch for 2 reasons. It was biodegradable and about a 3rd of the cost. As most of my motors are bushing motors. 100 to 1 isn’t enough to make a seal. I find that 3 oz. per. gal. is adequate except in the small ½ and 1 hp. motors I have. When I learned the Pennzoil was discontinued I bought all I could get. Menard’s had a couple pallets of it. Every time I went in I got 5 Gallons for $100.00 till it was gone. Ran out in 2023. Been experiment with the Stihl and the Bel Ray biodegradable oils. I’ve decided to go with the Stihl only as it is the easiest to get. Not a recommendation. Only my experience. Use your bet judgment.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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June 25, 2025 at 2:28 pm #297584Thanks, Tubs.
Would this be a good substitute? I was thinking any good quality of TCW-3, full synthetic, biodegratable oil would be just fine.
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1921 Elto Light Twin
1947 Evinrude Ranger
1956 Johnson JW-12R
1934 Johnson "F"June 26, 2025 at 8:46 am #297590I don’t know what makes a synthetic biodegradable, but Amsoil doesn’t make that claim for any of their products. Having used their 2 cycle product when one bottle was good for any application. I question how much difference there is in all the different applications the offer today? I have used their gear oil in my manual transmissions starting in the 70 . They have a good product. I’ve decided to go with the Stihl ultra because it’s biodegradable and easy for me to get. Not making a recommendation. Just offering my experience for one to consider in this controversial subject of our hobby.
Use your best judgment.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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