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This outboard made it’s debut here three years ago.
It was the “Frankenstein” motor, with the subject
powerhead mounted atop of a Elto Lightwin Model G or J
ruddertwin lower unit.I had purchased it an auction, and it appeared to have been a very
old creation, as the coil wires were deteriorated bad.The motor was put in “time out” as I either, could not get it started,
or only started with a drill motor. I only have video evidence that
I had it firing while roping it over.I decided to give it another go. In going over the ignition yesterday,
I was going crazy when trying to set the points, until I found some
old information that when the timer lever is placed over the Starboard
cylinder, the points stay “Open”, acting as an Off switch, and preventing
drain on the battery.
The coil guts were replaced with a Bendix Scintilla, double secondary coil,
new plug wires, etc. There’s a new capacitor mounted in the original condenser
can on the side of the timer.Does anyone have any factory information on setting the points, parts manual,
or other literature on these motors?The timer lever was missing when I got the motor, as was the tiller handle, but the later
is not needed being it has a rudder steer lower unit.While charging up my game cam 6v batteries to try to test the ignition,
I turned my temporary timer handle (from three years ago) into
a more realistic looking Elto handle.
Thanks.
Prepare to be boarded!
I have the factory procedure for the timing and setting of those points. It’s been years since I’ve seen it but will look for it this week.
1 user thanked author for this post.
One of the things I find most interesting about
the early motors is the ignition’s. This is one I
haven’t seen before. Thanks for posting your
pictures.
TubsA "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
One of the things I find most interesting about
the early motors is the ignition’s. This is one I
haven’t seen before. Thanks for posting your
pictures.
TubsTubs, I’ve been pondering this ignition system, and almost
got myself convinced that it’s not much different than an old
automotive ignition with battery, coil, points, condenser,
less the distributor, of course.
The points on this Elto are Normally OPEN, and they close
briefly on a flat spot on the flywheel cam, then open back up.
I was originally thinking that the coil fired when the points
closed, but now I’m wondering if the brief “closed” period
is the “Dwell” period perhaps, building up current in the coil,
firing when the points reopen?The Elto coil is rebuilt with a Scintilla coil, as per your drawing?
The capacitor is mounted external on the timer housing, as
per original.I had the motor firing / running for about two seconds a time or two.
Tomorrow, I’m going to check a few basics, i.e., compression, carb adjustments, etc.,
and see if I can get any improvement.I was also pondering, wondering what would happen if I bypass the Elto coil,
and hook up my Model T buzz coil. That would fire when the points first close,
so not sure what would happen “timing wise”.
Signed, Confused.
Prepare to be boarded!
I think this wound be what you ended up
doing as you don’t have the kill switch as I
under stand it.
Tubs
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
I have the factory procedure for the timing and setting of those points. It’s been years since I’ve seen it but will look for it this week.
Attn: Eltoquad, I found some old information on setting the points from
one Jim Ross. The info didn’t mention a gap, but I ended up increasing
it a little, so it was near .020.
==========================This timer is different from all the others in that the timer is doubling for the off or kill switch.
The steel sleeve which is pressed onto the crankcase neck and secured by a pin is an eccentric
and is made off center and when is over the left cylinder the points are to far apart to make contact.
When just forward of center over the right Cyl. you will make contact. There is raised part of the
Timer on the left side of the timer collar with a point, you line this up with a mark on the crankcase
collar or on the crankcase below it. With the timer cover removed you will find a point adjustment
with a tiny screwdriver slot in it, you loosen the lock nut and adjust the points from the side.
Jim Ross
======================
I found the timing marks Jim mentioned. The timer handle needed to be in the 4:30 ish position
for the marks to like up.
The timing marks….. raise vee on the timer body, and punch mark on the crankcase boss.
Prepare to be boarded!
The Elto Super A Rudder Twin is back in “Time Out”.
For kicks today, I bypassed the normal coil, and hooked
it up to my Model T Ford buzz coil, using the motor’s
points for the buzz coil’s “timer” connection.It didn’t take long to realize my buzz coil setup only
has “one” secondary outlet (plug wire), but
I tried it anyway, by running a jumper between spark plugs.
No idea if both plugs actually fired, but I did get the motor
to fire a few hits, but not as good as the previous day with
the normal ignition setup.Model T Fords probably had a separate buzz coil for each
cylinder, for a good reason.
I’m guessing if the compression was a little higher on the port
cylinder, it might run, but for now, time to play with something
different!
Prepare to be boarded!
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