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Created new thread since I don’t really have a B1F
Two questions
- my fuel tank is removed. What needs to be removed in order to get it back on? flywheel? (I hope not because I already tried removing and it’s stubborn)
- Is this model one that uses grease for the lower unit or gear oil?
Thanks
Edited question #2:
2. I found a 1935-1940 manual that says use Texaco Outboard Gear Lubricant which they say is in a tube
What is the equivalent of this? I have some QuickSilver Marine Grease that I use on prop shaft but it is pretty thick.
Is Lubriplate No. 105 Motor Assembly Grease correct? It sounds like the same process as I do for changing lower unit oil
Any help is appreciated
ML
Don’t use the Quicksilver grease. The Texaco gear lube isn’t around anymore, so yes, you can use the Lubriplate 105. Other option are John Deere cornhead grease or cotton picker spindle grease from Tractor Supply. The Lubriplate and John Deere greases are grade #0 and the Tractor Supply product is a little thinner at grade #00. I’m using the Tractor Supply grease in my ’37 Champion and it seems to work fine.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1957 Evinrude 3022
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."1 user thanked author for this post.
For initial adjustments and starting, try these:
Screw adjustment with “Lean” marking – close to seat, then open 3/4 turn
Choke lever on the side – up to choke, down to run
Lever on the top is the throttle – open about halfway
T handle knob is main adjustment screw – close to seat, then open 2 full turns
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1957 Evinrude 3022
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."1 user thanked author for this post.
Did you check the coil primary and secondary windings with an ohm meter?
In my opinion, it’s always best to replace the condenser.
If you need help with the test, let us know.
Photos of your magneto may help us.My 1940 Champion S1F magneto information. I’m not sure
if your mag has the same components or not.
______________________________Coil Wico X2156 (specs, 1.5 amps)
Coil tested at…..Primary .4 K ohm, Secondary 4.60 K ohms
X2186 Wico condenser (specs .16 to .20 mfd)
Replaced with .20 mfd electronic axial capacitor______________________________
Prepare to be boarded!
I’ll get pics and ohm measurements tomorrow. It has an Eisemann 61E magneto I believe
Looks like I have an open secondary on the coil. Strange since I had something with the tester. Pic below after I started to disassemble.
any suggestions on what I can replace this with?
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