Bill, you may have the adjustment needle open to far. If I remember correctly, mine runs at around a quarter turn [or a hair more] from gently seated. There is also a lift spec for the poppet valve… this refers to the amount the poppet valve is allowed to open. There is a cork ”stop” that the poppet valve bumps in to that could also be worn out. At the moment I don’t recall the correct adjustment spec….. Gary will know when he see’s this. It may also be possible to ”lap in” the float needle if it’s not sealing correctly, however, if it’s its grooved to bad it will need replaced.
One other thing I can tell you, is those little carbs have a tiny fuel passage after fuel leaves the bowl, then travels through the passage exiting the carb from a tiny hole when the poppet valve opens. Clean with carb spray followed by compressed air to be sure their open.

Check your float to see how well it floats. Use a bowl & fill with gas. Use a straight pin & float the assembly. Does it float at a level plane? Also use valve lapping compound. It is a tad finer grit for machining. You should set the float turned upside down seated at a level plane, then set the max drop where it doesn’t hit the carb body. Take a piece of hose & attach to the fuel inlet of the carb. Hold the carb upside down & blow slight pressure thru the hose. The weight of the float should seat the needle where no air can be blown out. If leaking use more lapping compound for a better seat. Use a bright light & look inside the seat for the needle. I have run across broken needle tips in the carb seat area. They are hard to get out. Use a little heat to open up the seat & drop the needle out by smacking the carb body against something solid like a 2 x 4 to get it to come out.
Good luck & hope no broken needles are found.