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philbilly-81.
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March 27, 2017 at 11:28 pm #6633
I have a 1941 5hp Johnson seahorse I need to replace the plug wires the coils I believe are good but the wires are soldiered on to the coils. Is their replacement coils for this motor that the plug wires actually plug into the coil or should I just soldier new wires onto these coils. I would also like to know how long the wires are to get new ones. I know they need to be copper marine wires already. Part number is what I’m looking for
March 28, 2017 at 1:02 am #55058You can solder new wires on. Just buy a few feet of wire
and cut them an inch or or two longer than the old.
Places like this sell wire by the foot, or a good auto parts store.
https://brillman.com/product/b9921-001- … -the-foot/
You just have to be careful not to over heat the coil terminal, or
you’ll ruin the coil. The secondary winding attached to the terminal
is thin as hair.
The secret is a good hot soldering iron that will solder "fast",
and of course flux and electrical solder.Prepare to be boarded!
March 28, 2017 at 1:32 am #55062do u know anything about getting a new coil if I mess it up.
March 28, 2017 at 2:02 am #55065The wire needs to be 7mm copper core. Tractor Supply sells a wiring kit for vintage tractors for about 10 bucks, and that is what I’ve used.
Coils are no longer available, except from parts motors. The technique I’ve used to solder new wires on these coils was to tin the wire first, then put the wire in place on the coil and gently touch the soldering iron to the tinned part of the wire. As soon as the solder melts into place, I blow in it to cool it quickly.
March 28, 2017 at 2:59 am #55074Be gentle – the high voltage wire is tiny to get the number of windings in there for the needed high voltage. The wires are soldered to a "L" shaped tab that is taped to the coil. Excessive heat can damage the tape. Pulling or twisting can damage the connection. I clip the old wire (If soldered) leaving solder on the coil. Pre bend the new wire so the tinned end rests against the coil solder. Then touch the iron to the wire just long enough for the solder to melt around it. Good connection – no strain on the tab. . . 😉
March 28, 2017 at 3:18 am #55078Anonymous
I’ve often wondered if using something like a pair of hemostats as a heat sink would work?
March 28, 2017 at 4:29 pm #55109how much would this motor be worth if I get it running if u cant find coils anymore
March 28, 2017 at 5:47 pm #55110I have had good luck cutting the wire about an inch from the coil stripping it, twisting together
and solder there then slide heat shrink tubing over the splice that way it keeps the heat away from the
coil. Worked well so far on the A-50, K-50 and Handitwin.
DougDoug
how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?March 30, 2017 at 5:29 am #55188quote philbilly.81:how much would this motor be worth if I get it running if u cant find coils anymoreLook around, TD 20 coils can be had from parts motors all over the country. These are nearly the same motor. The most obvious difference is the dull aluminum paint and the harder cast gas tank, and the post war motors all had recoil starters (I think). The cast tank is why the earlier TS motor’s tanks aren’t all dented up, like the later TDs. The decals are a little different , too. After WW2 they resumed building these 5 hp motors with a Sea Mist Green paint job and a few other changes I mentioned. They were extremely popular and can be found everywhere.
April 6, 2017 at 7:38 pm #55685I have my wires and they are attached. thank u very much everyone
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