Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1943 LeJay Electrol trolling motor
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Buccaneer.
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May 7, 2023 at 9:26 am #275984
Got this mechanical marvel all back together,
but it will probably spend the rest of my life
as a “rack filler”.The “red” prop that came with it was just stuck on the
end of the shaft, and the shaft threads didn’t even
protrude far enough to put a nut on.
I thought about machining it to fit, but
then I realized, it was a “right hand” prop, and
this unit needs a “left hand prop”.
I thought, perhaps I could just switch the battery leads,
but alas “no”, it still turned the same rotation.I found a tiny little “left hand” prop on a junk trolling motor,
and threaded the bore to fit the drive shaft.
It doesn’t run real “true”, nor is it big enough from what
I can tell from advertisements.Not sure what to think about the rheostat not “Rheostating”.
Only a tiny speed variation can be achieved throughout the
control stroke.All that being said,
Q – What would prevent the rheostat from regulating the speed? Grounded?Q. Does anyone know if the correct prop “screwed on” the driveshaft threads,
or was held on with a nut and cotter pin?
I can’t find any photos good enough to show that detail for the curved driveshaft models.VIDEO
https://youtu.be/M_tyeE-yWSoPrepare to be boarded!
May 7, 2023 at 11:39 am #275987
I have some pictures. Just pictures.
The speed of the motor may vary more
under a load when its in the water.
Tubs
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
May 7, 2023 at 11:50 am #275989Bucc, looking back at the pix of your rheostat, the “output” end of the circuit has to be from the underside of that spring loaded wiper, Maybe there is a contact “button” that makes up to the field coils when the rheostat housing is attached to the motor housing ??? just a guess … won’t even bill you for the $0.02
Joe B
May 7, 2023 at 12:16 pm #275994Tubs, thanks for the photos, they help! Looks like a castle nut and cotter key
that holds the prop on.Joe, when I was examining the rheostat on the bench, I came
to the conclusion that it was merely a “grounding” mechanism
to control voltage, dependent on the position of the wheel on the
coil. Perhaps I should have kept theorizing and playing with it.
Only problem, using my ohm meter, testing from one end of the coil
to the other, and in-between, the ohms, if any, didn’t seem to change.At any rate, I hooked up the one and only lead to the rheostat
to the same terminal as found when I took it apart.If I find a prop that will fit it, or can be made to fit, I may play
with it some more.
Thanks!Bucc, looking back at the pix of your rheostat, the “output” end of the circuit has to be from the underside of that spring loaded wiper, Maybe there is a contact “button” that makes up to the field coils when the rheostat housing is attached to the motor housing ??? just a guess … won’t even bill you for the $0.02
Joe B
Prepare to be boarded!
May 7, 2023 at 6:08 pm #276012Bucc, with that heavy gage wire in the stat, a normal Ohm meter will not show any noticeable resistance change from one end to the other, I suspect. We need an “electrical guy” here… I think that it’s all about heavy current flow.
Joe B
May 7, 2023 at 6:39 pm #276014Bucc, with that heavy gage wire in the stat, a normal Ohm meter will not show any noticeable resistance change from one end to the other, I suspect. We need an “electrical guy” here… I think that it’s all about heavy current flow.
Joe B
Electrician or Magician may have helped!
I’m not ever sure if the rheostat was suppose
to be on the “hot” or “negative” side of the battery,
but it seems to work the same either way.Prepare to be boarded!
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