Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1948 Evinrude Light Four with no spark…need advice
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huntleybill.
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January 7, 2016 at 12:08 am #3337
I have no spark on any plug wire.
I disconnected the coils from the stater plate for testing.
I am using sweep meter set to 1K ohms
I have put my meter to ground and then to the white wire (Low voltage lead ??)on side of the coil. I have continuity.
I then put the meter on ground and touch (one at a time) both high voltage leads (spark plug wires). I get nothing.
I then touch the white wire to both high voltage wires and get nothing.
I then touch both high voltage leads and get 7K ohms.Are these coils bad? If so, are there replacements available, and where?
If the coils are not bed, what troubleshooting steps do I need to do to get the spark working?Thank you for your time
BillJanuary 7, 2016 at 12:11 am #29722Resistance seems Ok, but in the pictures it looks like you have dirty points, and I’m willing to bet the condensors need to be replaced. Points can be cleaned and don’t need to be replaced. But when you clean them clean all around them not just the contact surface.
There are wires going to the kill button on the mag plate that can make contact with ground "if" the insulation goes bad, but that is rare. On coils that fire 2 plugs at the same time, the test for continuity is between the two secondarys. You won’t get continuity from one secondary lead to ground..so your test was correct.
January 7, 2016 at 1:37 am #29723Thank you George.
If I understand what your saying, you believe the coils are good and my issue is in the condensers or points. I did clean the points but I cleaned the contacts, not the whole thing. I will go back through them.Can condensers be tested or is it best to just replace them?
Also, do you have or is there a picture of how the wiring is supposed to be for the kill button. I want to make sure i get all the wiring correct.January 7, 2016 at 1:50 pm #29742To test for spark both plugs on one coil must be connected and grounded. The points need to read close to O ohms and you need to unhook the point wire or you will be reading across the coil. I use .18 mf 400v capacitors to replace condensers. The kill switch, condenser and point wires are all tied together. If you can’t get it working I have a working mag assembly.
January 7, 2016 at 4:34 pm #29748One caution on these later Lightfours. THe coil primaries must be connected to the correct set of points. If they are reversed there will be no spark
You may be able to see if they have been previously reconnected.
The pre 1938 Lightfours dont have this issue.
January 7, 2016 at 6:02 pm #29754quote Huntleybill:Also, do you have or is there a picture of how the wiring is supposed to be for the kill button. I want to make sure i get all the wiring correct.
These pictures might help as it does get to be a bit of a rats nest when it’s all together. As mentioned, each coil has to be wired to the correct set of points. If I replace the original primary wiring, I use 18G tin coated as it is flexible and solders easy when joining the points, coil, condenser and kill switch together in one joint. Some shrink tube does the insulating.Here you can see four wires together to make one connection.
I like your mag plate as it is clean and also has tabs to ground the primary circuit in the coil. Usually that wire is soldered to one of the mounting screws.
January 8, 2016 at 2:27 am #29789OK…this helps a lot.
Also, I looked up testing condensers and found that to test them, remove them from the circuit and connect the meter neg meter lead to ground and the pas meter lead to the pos contact. The meter set to ohms should show the needle climb as it is being charged. Then set the meter to DC volts and watch as the meter needle move back to 0.When I connect my meter to the condenser (either condenser) I get nothing. The meter needle doesn’t move…ever.
Also, how do I tell which primary wire goes with which set of points?
January 8, 2016 at 4:11 am #29793Your caps are bad I bet. An analog meter will not show leakage or capacity of the cap. Also your replacement caps should be rated at 800 volts & are very important how fast the cap accepts & discharges. Most 400 volt caps have a slower rate & will fail in time. The cap is rated in Dv/Dt1000 or higher & the dissipation factor of 0.05% or LESS!! manufactureswho make caps that perform with high Dv/Dt’s will have that parameter in the description, if not it is not there it is safe to assume the cap is for general use & will not last in a magneto. G o to Newark.com & in the part box type in mkp1839 084hq. These caps are rated for a magneto. Be sure not to forget the suffex hq as it means high quality. I have researched this very much & electronics is my hobby. Vishay is the brand cap. You must mount them in your can but they fit most cans. Anything less & you are asking for failure. 😉 P.S. you need a Merc o tronic or Stevens cap tester for good test data. Check your service manual for placement. I have one & can scan & send the pages needed if needed. jeff.50@cox.net.
January 8, 2016 at 4:32 am #29796Thank you Jeff. I looked at the website you mentioned. Seems there are two choices. MKP1839 410 084HQ and
MKP1839 415 084HQ. Which one would you recommend? Are they really asking $20 for shipping?? Yikes!Can I just go to my local auto parts store and pick up the correct condenser? Is there a part number that would work?
Electronics is NOT my strong suit! I got a feeling I would have to tear apart and redo the condensers if I buy these caps.I don’t have a service manual for this motor. Love to have one
January 8, 2016 at 2:14 pm #29813 -
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