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Nice find…you gonna need a race boat of sorts to run that as I do not think that will run on a 15 inch transom…
The Mercs of that era do pull over hard, nature of the beast. That is made for a very light race boat with remote steering as you have the steering bar.. that is good… Gearcases are unique, have that checked out, you won’t like the cost to repair one..
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
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Thankfully, the gearcase has been gone through and completely resealed.
It does have the roller bearing, which means disassembly and regreasing after every time.
I also have a 10′ runabout class hydroplane it will be paired with.
Any oil recommendations? I was told to run 90wt high performance.
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1931 Johnson A-50
1950 Mercury KF-7
1951 Mercury KG-7
1956 Johnson JW-12R
Its a pretty simple, but well built, device. If it doesn’t want to engage every time could be dry and need lubricating. Like R W said, they pull hard. I have to use both hands but when they are right, as soon as one cylinder fires, there running, so you don’t have to pull them very far.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
Nice set up. I use Lubriplate 105 in all my Merc race motors. Never had any problems.
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You can make a tool from the chuck end of the right size drill bit. You want your tool to fit the hole so you don’t tear it up. I don’t think you need to change the lube every time but you want to be sure there isn’t any water in it. 105 is more expensive than corn head grease but it is an assembly lube. It is used to protect high pressure parts when starting a fresh motor for the first time. I believe this is beneficial for gears when you consider the load being put on them and its what I use. Is it necessary? That’s up to you.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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Go to a hardware store or home center. Get some 1″ or 1-1/4″ dowel rod. Cut off a 12″ piece. Take the drill of the size you need and drill into the dowel rod as far as you can. Ideally you want just enough of the drill sticking out to reach the bottom of the hole. Whack the tool with a hammer “handle”, or something similar, close to the cone to break it loose. Don’t know if yours is left or right handed thread. Getting the drill to go in straight is a challenge for me, but there is enough rod left over so I have a couple more chances. Even so, I might be heading back to the home center. Good luck.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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