Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1954 Johnson CD-10 5.5 HP – Magneto Armature Plate Grunge
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aquasonic.
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July 19, 2025 at 4:25 pm #298315
pessimist 🙁 !
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
July 27, 2025 at 6:31 pm #298565I replaced the coils, condensers, points, spark plug wires, and reinstalled the magneto on the power head while using one of Ben Ditmar’s videos as a reference. All went well, until…I was using my “timing tool” (from Richard’s Tools) to adjust the points and I found that I am not able to make the points contact one another at all (for the top cylinder). I started thinking the eccentric screw was worn…doesn’t look like it. I also tried moving the breaker base assembly CCW to make the points contact…still no contact. Could the breaker arm assembly be not made at the correct angle? I am using a Sierra 18-5006 tune-up kit. Any thought and/or suggestions?
July 27, 2025 at 8:13 pm #298566Your suspicion is correct. The points we have available to purchase today are not made well. Even the OEM points fall into this category. Fortunately in most cases points do not need to be replaced. If your original points are OMC brand….see if they can be cleaned and polished. Try them with Richard’s timing tool and I bet all will be well.
July 27, 2025 at 10:39 pm #298570Thanks for response “seakaye12”! I inspected the original points and they appear to be not much left to clean up. Any other ideas? Are EMP parts any good?
July 28, 2025 at 12:38 pm #298592Dave,
Sad but true about the points made today. I have an idea I’ve used on other contact surfaces. Have anyone heard of a burnishing tool? It is a tool for replacing contact surface material for relays & such. The tool actually transfers metal to the contact surface. Not inexpersive at $40.00 per tool & looks like a big ball point pen. It acts like a file only reverses metal transfer. I have one from my electronics days somewhere.
Another idea is get a very small rat tail file & elongate the slotted space on the new points so the adjusting screw actuates the points correctly.I was so lucky whan I built old omc motors, the parts were still out there. You can bet the capacitors ( are pure junk) They lose their dielectric value as magnetos require tough condensers ( actually capacitors) Condersers make moonshine!
Last time I talked about caps another member said porsilin caps are available now for magnetos. They can be installed in the old cap cans to look all stock appearance if desired
.P.S. Keep everything spotless clean using acetone. Put a wrap of masking tape on the coil heals, install flywheel by hand & turn to see if coil heals are rubbing, get as close as possable. When the heals pass over the second & thrird magnets at the exact time the points should break for max spark.
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July 28, 2025 at 1:08 pm #298593Dave,
Are you planning to visit Tomahawk?
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comJuly 28, 2025 at 2:33 pm #298598Not going to make it to Tomahawk this year!
August 1, 2025 at 2:05 pm #298708If those coils, condensers and points look good, I wouldn’t trash them until you try to get it running. The new coils, etc. aren’t the quality of the ones from 30 years ago. If they do the job, I’d keep them before I’d replace them. Even if you have to replace the points and condensers, try to keep the coils.
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August 1, 2025 at 10:04 pm #298715Sent you a PM.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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August 2, 2025 at 9:58 pm #298739Thanks Tubs for the PM…I was able to get another set of points from US Boatworks in KC…the new points were made by EMP. I was able to get these to close and open like they’re supposed to. We’re making progress now…carburetor and magneto rebuilt. Torquing the flywheel was a bit of a challenge…had to improvise by making a tool to hold it in place. Now…on to restoring the lower unit by replacing the impeller and all the many seals. I am slow in making things happen, but I am having fun getting there.
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