Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1955 Elgin 7.5 HP Project
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Steve A W.
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October 24, 2015 at 11:57 am #2843
Put the HD20 project away for the winter so I decided to make this my winter project. It’a 1955 7.5 HP in pretty decent shape, shouldn’t be too bad to bring back other than it was a salt water motor at some point but so far removing screws and everything has been pretty easy.
Did a quick compression test before breaking it down:
Top cylinder 87 psi
Bottom cylinder 90 psiNot familiar with Elgins yet, but I would think that’s pretty good. Haven’t gotten too far yet, trying to fight the flywheel off right now, probably a product of salt water use. I have the carburetor off, getting ready to rebuild it.
Looking for good sources of information on these.
Thanks,
JoeOctober 24, 2015 at 12:44 pm #25968The compression numbers are good. The AOMCI Elgin SIG has a website
http://www.elginoutboards.org
Post any questions here.October 25, 2015 at 10:57 am #26032I you need coils, OMC coils will fit onto the Elgin coil laminates. The are both 7/16. But you will need the Elgin laminates. Probably a good idea to use the OMC condensers with those coils. I believe they fit just fine.
October 25, 2015 at 12:09 pm #26034Thanks, I was reading about Elgin coils some last night. I still can’t get the flywheel off of this thing, other than soaking with PB Blaster, any ideas? I’m using a standard flywheel puller to attempt it.
Having some trouble with the carburetor, too. The throttle linkage is so hard to move that it has no more spring action. I’m not sure that I can free it up or not, may put an ad up for a the linkage.
I was also curious on the bottom of the carb where the glass bowl goes. When I remove there is a cork gasket/hard diaphragm (for lack of a better explanation) along with the opening. What is the diaphragm suppose to look like, I’m afraid mine is just a big mass of hard varnish. I’ll try to get a picture of this.
October 25, 2015 at 1:34 pm #26035This sounds crazy but it works: heat the flywheel center and the crankshaft with a heat gun until it is hot enough to melt candle wax after the heat source is removed. Melt a little wax into the joint. Let the assembly cool, then try the puller along with with a bit of carefully applied shock. If no result, re-heat until the wax again melts; add a little more if needed. I had a Champion 7.8 with a similarly stubborn flywheel; it took two weeks but I got the flywheel off without damage to the engine.
October 25, 2015 at 3:57 pm #26040I’ll try anything, I damaged a crankshaft on an old John Deere Tecumseh engine once with a stubborn flywheel so I’ve learned to be patient with this, Thanks.
October 25, 2015 at 4:53 pm #26044On a few small stubborn flywheels I have had luck leaving the puller on with tension and leaving it. Apply all oils and ointments as usual, never had to resort to heat (yet) but you could apply it here too. Doing this i have come back a few days later and the wheel had pooped. One time I was in the shop and it ave me a little startle not expecting the pop in the quiet…..kind of like when the compressor starts up out of the blue.
As others have mentioned leave the flywheel nut on the top of the crank to prevent damage from the puller.
Good luck. I will look today but may have some of those carb parts I could send you.
Shoot me a pm if interested.
Allen
October 26, 2015 at 2:16 am #26073Watch Tubbs’ video on popping flywheels.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWgE9XiIBnkMember of the MOB chapter.
I live in Northwest Indiana -
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