Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1956? Buccaneer 25hp
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Bob Wight.
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January 30, 2021 at 7:07 pm #229110
I think I have a ’56 buccaneer 25hp but my issue is that I believe the lower crank seal is leaking. I believe it has the carbon seal but in the attached pictures there looks like fogging oil leaking out. When I took off the powerhead there was an unusual amount of fresh oil in the crankshaft section of the lower tower.
1. Do I have the carbon seal?
2. Do I have to split the block to replace the seal?Thanks,
RexJanuary 30, 2021 at 7:08 pm #229115January 30, 2021 at 8:53 pm #229130Yes, that is a carbon seal. You don’t need to split the case open to replace the O-ring inside the seal. While holding some downward tension on that spring, remove the C-clip around the base of the crankshaft. Under the C-clip is a small washer, followed by the spring, then a larger washer. Once the washers and springs are removed, carefully remove the black piece which is the carbon seal. Be careful with the carbon seal, as it can easily break. Inside the seal is an O-ring that needs to be replaced. Better yet, find a quad ring to replace the original O-ring. Assembly is the reverse of removal. Just be sure to hold downward tension on the spring so the various pieces don’t go flying all over the shop.
Edit – not sure on that model, but be sure to take special note of the orientation of the carbon seal when you remove it. Not exactly sure when the change was made but some models will have a raised lip on one side of the carbon seal – that raised lip side should face the crankcase. It almost looks like that black goo is the original sealer used to seal the case halves. At any rate, since you’ve already removed the powerhead, might as well replace the carbon seal O-ring.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1957 Evinrude 3022
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."January 30, 2021 at 9:25 pm #229133Bobw, I do believe that black goo is the original sealer as well, it’s kind of hard to see but the second picture of my post which is looking straight onto the crank has a drip of oil startin onto of the snap ring. It would’ve been more noticable if I did not wipe it away before the picture.
I found both oem o-rings I need, what is the “quad ring” you mentioned? I’ve never heard of it.
This is the first (of about 8 in line) of the big twins I’ve taken down this far. Looking at the part on Marineengine. Com it looks like there is a rubber lip to the carbon seal, would it be wise to replace it along with the o-rings since I’m already there?
January 30, 2021 at 9:34 pm #229137Yes, it is a 1956. Look at your first (& other) pictures. See that drilled hole below the seal? If I am not mistaken, that is the dump for the crankcase puddle drains. A surprising amount of fuel/oil mix spritzes out that hole when running. That would account for the oil in the tower housing. It’s just the way they were back in “The Day”.
January 30, 2021 at 9:35 pm #229138A standard O-ring will work but the quad rings will seal better. Here’s a link to quad rings at McMaster Carr
https://www.mcmaster.com/90025K347/
On your picture from Marine Engine, what looks like a rubber lip on the carbon seal is actually the raised lip I was talking about – it’s an integral part of the carbon seal itself. That lip should face the crankcase.
There is only 1 O-ring inside the carbon seal. There is a larger O-ring that goes around the lower crank bearing – you will have to split the case to replace that one.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1957 Evinrude 3022
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."-
This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by
Bob Wight.
January 30, 2021 at 9:46 pm #229140One of the o-rings in the parts book goes around the O.D. of the bearing. The case has to be split to access that one—-But don’t go that far. It is not an issue. The o-ring for inside the carbon has been superseded by a quad ring. By relying on memory only, I believe the part number is 305098. As for the carbon seal, it will be fine if it is not broken.
When you remove the snap ring, look closely and you will see one side has sharp edges, while the other side has slightly rounded edges. It goes with the sharp edges DOWN (toward you). Imagine the sharp edges digging into the crank groove. Upside down, it might pop off.
January 30, 2021 at 9:50 pm #229142Confirming, 305098 quad ring. But $16.00 each is insane. You can get a whole bunch of them for that from McMaster.com In fact, I did, and still have a bunch of them.
January 30, 2021 at 10:51 pm #229143Bobw and Frankr thank you for the information, it will be highly useful to me. The help is much appreciated .
January 30, 2021 at 11:39 pm #229147If it turns out you need to replace the carbon seal itself, shop around on Ebay – you can usually find a New Old Stock seal for around $15.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1957 Evinrude 3022
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings." -
This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by
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