Home Forum Ask A Member 1956 Evinrude 15 HP Stuck Driveshaft

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  • #270339
    olcah
    Participant

      US Member

      Believe the driveshaft splines are rusted into the splines on the end of the crankshaft.  Tried running penetrating oil down the shaft with the motor standing on the flywheel.   Tried wooden wedges between the gearcase and exhaust housing but the shaft only came out of the gearbox.  I plan to remove the powerhead from the exhaust housing and maybe try some heat??  I recall a discussion about rusty splines awhile ago but cannot find the topic.

      What have others done?

      Thank you.

      #270341
      wedgie
      Participant

        I’m having the same problem with a 1960  18 horse. I’ve taken the powerhead off the exhaust housing and tried a MAP torch on the driveshaft , but no joy so far. Maybe two torches simultaneously  to get it really hot will help. I’m also thinking to borrow my neighbours air chisel, and affixing a platen of steel to hammer in the vicinity of the crank. All this while suspending the powerhead from the driveshaft.

        • This reply was modified 3 years ago by wedgie.
        #270343
        dave-bernard
        Participant

          US Member

          may be worn splines try rotating the shaft backwards first then pull out.

          #270345
          elgin2
          Participant

            US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

            I used a slide hammer with a pair of vise grips on the end. Clamp above where the impeller rides.

            #270349
            fleetwin
            Participant

              US Member

              Well, this is a tough situation for sure.  It is usually best to remove the powerhead firts.  Trying to clamp/pull the driveshaft from down below the exhaust hsg usuall results in damage to the driveshaft seal/bearing surfaces.

              I have had success clamping the driveshaft in a vice with the powerhead hanging upside down.  Then using a soft pry bar, and an air hammer on the driveshaft up close to the splines usually frees things up.  Be careful to support the powerhead adequately so it doesn’t just fall on the floor when the splines free up.  Using a torch might cause issues with the lower seal/bearing, so I usually don’t use the torch.  If your engine has the carbon seal set up on the lower crank, it might be best to remove it before beginning, so it doesn’t get broken in the process.

              #270354
              elgin2
              Participant

                US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                If it will run, hook a water line to it and start it. The vibration of the shaft spinning may loosen it up.

                #270359
                crosbyman
                Participant

                  Canada Member

                  I have used  Dupont snowblower teflon on tuff nuts … the stuff is thinner  than water  creeps in by capillary  action  and  worked for me.

                  Dupont Teflon Snow & Ice Repellant, 284-g | Canadian Tire

                  Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

                  #270373
                  joecb
                  Participant

                    US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                    Along the lines of what elgin said… with the lower unit attached, loosen the power head bolts a few turns, wedge the power head over a little and start the motor ( or spin it over with a drill). the mis-alignment will eventually break loose the joint.

                    Joe B

                    #271229
                    olcah
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      Got the shaft out using a “slide hammer”.    I put the shaft in the vise as the bearing surfaces were already bad.  Looks like the crankshaft splines are rusted out.  Thank you to everyone who replied.  🙂

                      • This reply was modified 3 years ago by olcah.
                      #271240
                      fleetwin
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        Well, they are rusted for sure.  But, still looks like plenty of meat left there.  I would spray pentetrating oil into the splines and just keep working the driveshaft in and out many times to clear away some of the rust.  Perhaps you might want to use a small screwdriver first to start the job, to prevent the driveshaft from getting stuck again when you have to force it inside the crank splines.

                        This is one of those engines that uses the regular type seal on the bottom of the powerhead instead of the carbon seal set up.  You might consider replacing it now that the powerhead is off,  at least give it a very close inspection prior to reassembly.

                        Once the splines are cleaned up, be sure to use a new oring on the driveshaft, along with the OMC moly lube on the splines to prevent this from happening again.  Not a bad idea to pull the gearcase off every season (if used in salt water), to clean and relube the splines.

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