Topic: 1956 Oliver 5.5 hp won’t start – Page 3 – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 36 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 3 months ago by jerry-ahrens.

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October 3, 2016 at 2:58 am #45095
Buccaneer
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Jason, that makes sense! I’ll have to look at the set up again when I pull
the reed block back off. The original carb flange is thinner than the
temp one that I snugged down "tighter" today. I was afraid of
tightening the nuts on original carb and breaking off the flange.
I will try switching back to the new carb tomorrow!

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October 3, 2016 at 10:16 am #45101
jerry-ahrens
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Glad you got it running!Sounds like your original carb is the problem. Have you checked the idle tube to be sure it’s open? I use some carb cleaner, with the red extension tip, or if it’s bad, use a torch tip cleaner wire of the appropriate size to clean it out. A good way to clean a nasty carburetor is to spray it out with Mercury PowerTune. Let it soak for 20 mins. or so, then rinse with carb cleaner. Repeat as needed. The Power Tune spray will dissolve varnish almost instantly.
October 3, 2016 at 12:35 pm #45109
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Jerry, the original carb is clean as clean can be.
I have a thin, stiff wire that I use to probe all
the ports on carbs to make sure they’re open,
along with compressed air. I had to make a new,
tiny gasket for the pick-up tube… not sure if
that’s causing any problems.
Will play more today!

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October 3, 2016 at 9:17 pm #45131
jerry-ahrens
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I’ts been a couple years since I was in to one of those carbs. I suppose that if the gasket was leaking, it could mess up the air adjustment on the low speed circuit. Most carbs that I’ve worked with that are air metering on the low speed side, can be a little touchy. I’ll have to take a look at one of those to see. I remember the first time I tried to start my CC Commander after going through it. I thought I had the carb clean, but it would only run with the choke partially on. I had to blow it out once again with compressed air, then it ran fine.Were you able to unscrew the float needle seat out of the carb body? Usually those are corroded in and hard to remove. I know both my Commander carbs had a lot of crud in there, once I got it out. Sometimes just a spec of trash can cause lots of problems. But, at least you know what the trouble is. Keep us posted!
October 3, 2016 at 11:11 pm #45134
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UPDATE – Monday October 3rd & 1/2
I put the original carb back on today, redid the cam to throttle adjustment,
etc. It started right up, but kept running out of gas.

Guessing that the problem of "not starting" all along, as Frank suggested,
was that I was a "frog’s hair" shy of having the reed block seated tight.
Jason pointed out that the reed block (along with the center bearing) separates
the two halves of the crankcase on this model, and won’t run if not seated.

The fuel pump has a new (homemade) diaphragm with "official Ollie Oliver"
diaphragm material. I haven’t taken the fuel pump back apart yet to inspect,
but ordered a B&S style, $7.00, impulse pump just in case.

I by-passed the fuel pump to make sure I had a pump problem, and rigged
up a "Red Neck" gravity fuel tank. After I got it tuned in, it runs pretty good.
It doesn’t idle as well as my Chris Craft, but it has better compression.
Video of your efforts……
https://youtu.be/AvF119_Sl7I

Thanks for all the suggestions!
Bucc

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October 4, 2016 at 12:12 am #45136
jerry-ahrens
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Sounds great! If you have the fuel tank on the ground, it may be too much for the fuel pump to pull that high. Maybe try raising the tank higher?
October 4, 2016 at 12:46 am #45138
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Jerry, I had the tank on a stool originally, but even tried
putting it above the carb level with no better results.
I pulled the dip tube out of the gas tank and the screen
was clean. The tank was over 1/2 full.
Strange, but yesterday (with the wrong carb on) it
would run out of fuel at low speed, but when rev’d up,
the pump seemed to keep up. I assume that if the engine
has enough compression to run, then it should have
enough vacuum at the port to run the pump?
It’s a very simple fuel pump, nothing inside but the
diaphragm…. can’t imagine it was very efficient!

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October 4, 2016 at 8:23 pm #45184
frankr
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Really, no check valves in the pump? That’s really odd. I wonder how it could possibly work that way.
October 4, 2016 at 9:10 pm #45201
jerry-ahrens
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I wondered the same thing. There has to be some sort of check valves in there?
October 4, 2016 at 10:14 pm #45207
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From what I remembered, when I had it apart replacing the diaphragm, and
scratching my head on "how it works", The diaphragm itself acts as the
check valves. Photos show the diaphragm, and the two body pieces as
shown on "Ollie Oliver’s" site.
The one inner body half that you see has the recessed port on the bottom,
and on the other half, there’s a recessed port on the top.
The four center most holes in the diaphragm are just bolt holes,
and the other four holes are for the fuel path. These four fuel path
holes, two and top, two at bottom, straddle the center hole in the
pump body. It kind of made sense when I had it apart, but I can’t
make it work in my head right now, lol.
Had to go to the big city today shopping, but may go out to the
garage now and take it apart, see what could be wrong, and
refresh myself on "how" it should work. If I stay inside I will
need NoDoze to stay awake to watch the VP Debate 🙁

Would like to test this impulse pump on the bench, but not sure
what I’d hook the impulse up to. Any ideas?

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