Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18hp Carb Problems after rebuild
- This topic has 48 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 1 month ago by
cesarp35.
-
AuthorPosts
-
March 11, 2018 at 8:26 am #9393
Hey guys i’m pretty new to outboards and this forum so excuse my ingnorance, i recently purchased a 1957 Evinrude Fastwin motor model 15020 from an elderly gentle man who stated that the motor had been stored in his garage for the last 25 years or so, it looked to be in pristine condition, i brought it home and hooked it up to the gas tank out of curiosity and darn thing fired up however impeller was not pumping water, so i turn it off, i decided to purchase a lower unit gear seal kit, carb kit and water pump kit, i replaced and rebuilt the mentioned items, i went to start the motor and it started and ran for about 30 seconds the water pump and lower seals worked great, however it now starts and and dies after a few seconds, theirs seems to be a lot of gas coming out from the main carb chamber as if it’s flooding, as i prime the primer bulb i can see gas spilling out of the carb, i’m going crazy as i took the carb apart 3 times now to see if there’s anything i missed, float was adjusted level to carb housing and everything seems fine, seems like float is not closing all the way for some reason, any help is greatly appreciated guys!!!
March 11, 2018 at 11:09 am #72334Not a lot to go wrong there….Gasket is in place under the seat? Float installed right side up? "Right side up" means that the cork is very close to carb housing when held upside down, and level, with about 20 degrees of arc. Upside down (incorrect) would be level with about a 1/2" showing between the float and carb, with 90+ degrees of arc movement. (I don’t even think you could put the bowl on this way; but stranger things have happened on this forum.) If the float is installed correctly, then sometimes there can be tiny debris that finds its way into even a clean carb. (See below) You would need to blow it out with some compressed air. Or, if you used aftermarket brand parts, they are often of poor quality and may not fit correctly together. Hold the carb upside down, bowl off, with a small piece of hose attached to the inlet hose nipple, and blow through it with your mouth. You should NOT be able to blow through. Hold carb upright and blow….float should swing down 20 degrees, the needle should follow the float arm and you SHOULD be able to blow through it. If it leaks in the upside down position, it is helpful to have a spray bottle with one third dish soap and two thirds water. Spray the mixture on the inverted carb, blow and look for bubbles.
Keep in mind, too, that 1957 is old. ( A GREAT year and motor; but OLD.) You should be using a pressure tank and dual line gas/air hose, from your tank. ALL of that stuff is also probably dirty inside, so you may just be pumping junk into your cleaned cab and causing the inlet needle to stick open, immediately….At the very least, make sure all is clean from the filter, on to to the carb…
Lastly, and I’ve only seen this a couple of times in 43 years, is that the carb body may be porous, especially if a really harsh cleaner or sand blaster was used to clean it. The soapy water trick will show that….although that is VERY unlikely.
Long live American manufacturing!
March 11, 2018 at 12:01 pm #72335Is the little clip installed correctly to the float valve and float? Is the bowl vent clear (mud daubers)? You mentioned the primer bulb–what’s with that? Have you converted it?
Once you figure out the carb flooding, your next item should be the ignition coils. Actually, that should have been #1. ALL 1957 Evinrudes have cracked coils, unless they have already been replaced. You are wasting your time until you do replace them.
March 11, 2018 at 12:40 pm #72338I’m curious if you used an OEM Dealer purchased carburetor kit? Did it come with a new black float? If you used a Sierra kit, they don’t come with a new float… and I have had trouble with aftermarket carb kits as Bill mentioned. The gaskets sometimes are to thick, and will cause you to chase your tail. If you buy an OEM kit, you will eliminate these problems, and you need a new float anyway. Do the same on the points, condensers and coils,
stay away from aftermarket stuff.March 11, 2018 at 3:07 pm #72348March 11, 2018 at 3:57 pm #72355Thanks BillW for the info i will take it off again and try your suggestions hopefully i will get different results, and yes by the way i used this carb rebuild kit Evinrude/Johnson Carb Repair Kit #439071 that came with the bowl.
March 11, 2018 at 4:03 pm #72356Hey FrankR, i have not gone that far as to looking at the ignition coils as i got real happy when it started and ran for bit on initial start, that will be be the next on my thing to do do as soon as i get the carb issue taken care of. Thanks for the reply!
March 11, 2018 at 4:11 pm #72357Yeah Jerry i used Evinrude/Johnson Carb Repair Kit #439071, i will use the same OEM for the points, condensers and coils i will be ordering soon,, i will not give up until i get this baby going, it’s truly an awesome looking little motor.
March 11, 2018 at 4:12 pm #72358Thanks crosbyman for the diagram!!!
March 11, 2018 at 4:21 pm #72359Is the bowl vent open? It is cast and drilled into the carb body. If the bowl is not vented, you can rebuild the carb and set to ‘specs’ all day long and get the same results; leaking fuel and a no run condition.
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.