Home Forum Ask A Member 1957 Johnson fde11

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  • #4515
    shermdog
    Participant

      Ok, I have the opportunity to pick up this 18hp but I want to try and start it. It allegedly pulls over but I assume any 12 volt solenoid will work and I also assume it is 12volt. I can put a rebuilt carb on it to solve any fuel issue. Have not had any electric ones yet but this right arm is getting older. Looking for insight.

      #38396
      opposedtwin
      Participant

        US Member

        If it’s complete and looks decent, buy it for sure. The electric 18s never lose their value and are always in demand. Just check for compression. If it’s good enough (and within 5-8 lbs of each other) buy it. If it’s not, tell the seller it’s iffy and see if you can get it anyway but cheaper.

        #38398
        RICHARD A. WHITE
        Participant

          Lifetime Member

          If memory serves, the 1958 18 hp were in fact 12 volt… and per a previous thread here, no not any 12 volt solenoid will work. Frank Robb, described the whyfore in that thread. But I can’t remember the specifics, or where that thread is…

          http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
          classicomctools@gmail.com

          #38401
          lindy46
          Participant

            Some auto solenoids are grounded through the case and not through one of the small terminals like on a marine solenoid. Use ONLY a marine solenoid. Part # is 378444 (OMC) or 18-5807 (Sierra). You can rebuild the existing carb. Carb Kit is 18-7043 (Sierra). Sierra parts can be ordered through any NAPA store.

            #38403
            fleetwin
            Participant

              US Member

              I am assuming you are just trying to make sure the electric starter works ok. You could just use some made up cables/jumper cables to wire the starter direct and try it…
              Does the engine include the boat wiring harness and junction box? If not, you will have to make up a new wiring harness and rig up a solenoid in the engine pan somewhere.
              Please be sure to check compression, look for signs of overheat, and change/check the gear lube to look for signs of water. You will need to service the ignition/fuel systems, and change the water pump impeller regardless of how the engine seems to run in order to make this a reliable daily runner. Be sure to check the inside of the pressure tank as well, it is useless if rusted/gummed up inside.

              #38410
              dougs-outboards
              Participant

                Try to wiggle the flywheel and check for play there, make sure your top crank bearing is good.

                What Lindy said… Although I prefer the 18-5813 ST44 solenoid $22.88 at NAPA, replaces OMC 584128.

                Used it on my 1957 18 hp Johnson works like a charm. If you ever need wiring tips, PM me.

                #38412
                shermdog
                Participant

                  Thank u all for the info. Will see it next week. My replacement carb is already rebuilt. I think I can get it for $100. Wish me luck

                  #38522
                  1946zephyr
                  Participant

                    A ’57 Johnson FDE is a pretty safe investment for that. Unless it looks like it’s been rode hard and put away wet, then a complete tune up and clean up will coax them back to life for many more years. I would look for any discoloration on the cylinder head and make sure that it’s never been overheated though, because then it’s very likely that your pistons are shot.
                    Do a complete ignition refurb, before you go into the carb. I have very rarely had trouble with those carbs and the igntion is usually the culprit for running issues. I have actually had carbs, where the needles were stuck from years of sitting and they still functioned just fine after things were freed up. These carbs are very good designs for these outboards.
                    A new ignition sytem though, is 99% of the time, the most needed thing. The older coils had a coating that dried up hard, shrunk and then cracked, unlike the new ones that are coated with a newer plastic.

                    #39423
                    shermdog
                    Participant

                      Well thanks to Steve who put me on the right track for an original solenoid cover, solenoid and wiring harness. It’s on it’s way from Indiana. I still need a faceplate part number 304313. Just missed one eBay. That it was different because of electric but now understand the starter switch being separate Was able to jump start it and it runs great. Will start my rebuild soon to look new. Thanks to everyone for ur help

                      #39445
                      billw
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        I love FDs and Fastwins. The funny thing about them is even if they have somewhat low compression, they will still start and idle like a Swiss watch. Where low compression will show up is in the WOT range. Some will be quite a bit faster than others.

                        Long live American manufacturing!

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