Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1957 RD-18 30HP Electric start install
- This topic has 30 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 4 months ago by
Gary Pasquale.
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December 19, 2022 at 3:06 pm #270114
I quickly put this together for comment:
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This reply was modified 2 years, 4 months ago by
Gary Pasquale.
December 19, 2022 at 3:14 pm #270117I think you’ll need a (red) connection from the positive side of the battery to the B connector on the key switch; the key connects this to C (for choke), S (for start) and A (for accessories) as needed.
Also: the black connection from the starter (ground) to one of the M connectors on the switch will permanently kill the lower cylinder?
In some systems the black/ground connection on the solenoid goes to a safety interlock mercury switch on the engine to keep you from starting the engine at high throttle and/or in gear??
http://www.omc-boats.org
http://www.aerocraft-boats.orgDecember 19, 2022 at 3:17 pm #270118I did see that I missed that battery connection, and updated the image. Black connector on M, are you saying to eliminate that wire?
December 19, 2022 at 3:22 pm #270119Yes, I believe the M terminals should each connect only to one of the points; Since one of the points is always closed (grounded), shorting them together grounds both, killing both cylinders.
http://www.omc-boats.org
http://www.aerocraft-boats.orgDecember 19, 2022 at 3:24 pm #270120December 19, 2022 at 4:21 pm #270122No, I don’t think so, the key switch is on the “hot” side only; If you want to power anything from the dash (bow light) you’ll need to bring a ground up from the back for that…. I put a fuse in the red wire (after the power take-off on the solenoid) to protect against any shorts in the wiring going up to the dash (or coming back, ie; for the anchor light)
http://www.omc-boats.org
http://www.aerocraft-boats.orgDecember 19, 2022 at 4:35 pm #270123what size fuse? And ty for your help.
December 19, 2022 at 4:39 pm #270124Also does anyone have a trick for “sneaking” a solenoid under the hood? Having a hard time finding a good spot.
December 19, 2022 at 5:15 pm #270127Here’s a shot of the starter and solenoid location I used on my ’56 RD-18. The solenoid is an Arco SW-058 used on a number of Mercury applications but also worked fine on an OMC!
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."December 19, 2022 at 5:24 pm #270130The fuse is there to protect the wiring from burning up, and looking at https://www.westmarine.com/west-advisor/Marine-Wire-Size-And-Ampacity.html I see that the max amperage by gauge (for 12V systems and Marine wire) is:
10 gauge: 60A
12 gauge: 45A
14 gauge: 35AThe OTHER consideration is that thinner wires have more resistance, and cause more voltage drop per foot of wire per amp of current carried, and critical wiring is supposed to keep voltage drop less than 3% (0.36V) for a full run (both to and from the battery).
Here’s a chart (for 12V, AWG– NOT automotive SAE wire): https://www.westmarine.com/west-advisor/Marine-Wire-Size-And-Ampacity.html
Free web calculators:
https://baymarinesupply.com/calculator
https://boathowto.com/electrics/wire-size-calculators/I calculated amps based on the resistance I measured on my start and choke solenoids, using ohm’s law:
AMPS = VOLTS (12) divided by OHMS resistanceFor my choke solenoid I calculated 5.45A (must have been about 2.2 ohms), and 2A for the start solenoid (must have been about 6 ohms). Your resistance may vary!
http://www.omc-boats.org
http://www.aerocraft-boats.org -
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