Home Forum Ask A Member 1957 RD-18 30HP Electric start install

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  • #270114
    Gary Pasquale
    Participant

      I quickly put this together for comment:

      56-Wireing-3

      • This reply was modified 2 years, 4 months ago by Gary Pasquale.
      #270117
      Phil Budne
      Participant

        US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

        I think you’ll need a (red) connection from the positive side of the battery to the B connector on the key switch; the key connects this to C (for choke), S (for start) and A (for accessories) as needed.

        Also: the black connection from the starter (ground) to one of the M connectors on the switch will permanently kill the lower cylinder?

        In some systems the black/ground connection on the solenoid goes to a safety interlock mercury switch on the engine to keep you from starting the engine at high throttle and/or in gear??

        http://www.omc-boats.org
        http://www.aerocraft-boats.org

        #270118
        Gary Pasquale
        Participant

          I did see that I missed that battery connection, and updated the image. Black connector on M, are you saying to eliminate that wire?

          #270119
          Phil Budne
          Participant

            US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

            Yes, I believe the M terminals should each connect only to one of the points; Since one of the points is always closed (grounded), shorting them together grounds both, killing both cylinders.

            http://www.omc-boats.org
            http://www.aerocraft-boats.org

            #270120
            Gary Pasquale
            Participant

              Like this? Doesn’t the switch need a ground?

              56-WireingV2

               

              #270122
              Phil Budne
              Participant

                US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                No, I don’t think so, the key switch is on the “hot” side only; If you want to power anything from the dash (bow light) you’ll need to bring a ground up from the back for that…. I put a fuse in the red wire (after the power take-off on the solenoid) to protect against any shorts in the wiring going up to the dash (or coming back, ie; for the anchor light)

                http://www.omc-boats.org
                http://www.aerocraft-boats.org

                #270123
                Gary Pasquale
                Participant

                  what size fuse? And ty for your help.

                   

                  #270124
                  Gary Pasquale
                  Participant

                    Also does anyone have a trick for “sneaking” a solenoid under the hood? Having a hard time finding a good spot.

                    #270127
                    Bob Wight
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      Here’s a shot of the starter and solenoid location I used on my ’56 RD-18.    The solenoid is an Arco SW-058 used on a number of Mercury applications but also worked fine on an OMC!

                      Bob

                      1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
                      1954 Johnson CD-11
                      1955 Johnson QD-16
                      1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
                      1958 Johnson QD-19
                      1958 Johnson FD-12
                      1959 Johnson QD-20

                      “Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
                      "Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

                      #270130
                      Phil Budne
                      Participant

                        US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                        The fuse is there to protect the wiring from burning up, and looking at https://www.westmarine.com/west-advisor/Marine-Wire-Size-And-Ampacity.html I see that the max amperage by gauge (for 12V systems and Marine wire) is:

                        10 gauge: 60A
                        12 gauge: 45A
                        14 gauge: 35A

                        The OTHER consideration is that thinner wires have more resistance, and cause more voltage drop per foot of wire per amp of current carried, and critical wiring is supposed to keep voltage drop less than 3% (0.36V) for a full run (both to and from the battery).

                        Here’s a chart (for 12V, AWG– NOT automotive SAE wire): https://www.westmarine.com/west-advisor/Marine-Wire-Size-And-Ampacity.html

                        Free web calculators:
                        https://baymarinesupply.com/calculator
                        https://boathowto.com/electrics/wire-size-calculators/

                        I calculated amps based on the resistance I measured on my start and choke solenoids, using ohm’s law:
                        AMPS = VOLTS (12) divided by OHMS resistance

                        For my choke solenoid I calculated 5.45A (must have been about 2.2 ohms), and 2A for the start solenoid (must have been about 6 ohms). Your resistance may vary!

                        http://www.omc-boats.org
                        http://www.aerocraft-boats.org

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