Phil Budne wrote:

No, I don’t think so, the key switch is on the “hot” side only; If you want to power anything from the dash (bow light) you’ll need to bring a ground up from the back for that…. I put a fuse in the red wire (after the power take-off on the solenoid) to protect against any shorts in the wiring going up to the dash (or coming back, ie; for the anchor light)

You are correct, on this style magneto system.  In fact, it is very important that no grounds be connected to either one of those “m” terminals, or you will melt down one or both of the coils.  Accessories such as lights/radio should not be run off the engine harness coming up to the dashboard, a separate harness and fused batter connection should be used.

Gary, here’s some pics but I don’t think this will help much.   I just did a simple push button starter switch mounted on the front of the motor pan as opposed to the remote key switch setup you’re doing, so my setup was pretty simple.   And with the starter switch mounted at the motor, I didn’t bother with an electric choke either.

Yes, in all my restorations, I paint the carb, flywheel and mag plate with  Dupli-color Cast Coat Aluminum paint.    Not factory original but I think it adds a little extra to the finished project.