1958 Sportwin Ten Overhaul Advice

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  • June 26, 2023 at 1:55 am #277416
    mit&t
    Participant

      I inherited a vintage outboard motor from my father in law several years ago and finally took a closer look at it about a year ago.  With the help of several members on this forum, I figured out I had a 1958 10hp Power Head (Model No. 10016) mounted to a 1955 15hp Midsection and Lower Unit (Model No. 15014).  I’d like to overhaul the motor without spending a fortune and mate it with a correct 1958 10hp Midsection and Lower Unit (I’ve placed an ad for this in the Want to Buy section of the classified ads).  Assuming I’m successful finding such a thing, I wanted to get some overhaul advice.

      The Power Head appears to be in decent shape.  The crankshaft spins freely and the engine has compression (just put my finger over the spark plug hole–haven’t measured anything yet).  The spark plugs look ok and shining a flashlight down the holes, the cylinder walls appear in good shape.

      Here are some questions and thoughts and I’d appreciate comments and advice.

      1. Where is the best place to get reprints of the service and owners manuals?
      2. Where are the best places to get parts?
      3. I’m planning to rebuild the carburetor using a new kit.
      4. I’m also planning to rebuild the ignition system with a new kit.
      5. Should I remove the head to do a better inspection of the cylinders and install a new head gasket for good measure?
      6. Would it be overkill to disassemble any other parts of the engine unless I feel like there’s a problem?
      7. Last year when I posted, fleetwin warned me there could be wear in the wrist pin because there are no needle bearings.  I have to confess I don’t know what/where this is.  Could someone explain how to check this?
      8. I plan to completely disassemble the Midsection and Lower Unit, clean them thoroughly, look for wear, replace the impeller and fill the gear case with new grease.  Any other advice?
      9. The motor still has the original two line system, but the tank is a lost cause (filled with piles of rust).  Should I be searching for a two line tank to replace the original or converting to a single line system?
      10. Any other comments or suggestions?

      Thanks.

      June 26, 2023 at 8:05 am #277419
      crosbyman
      Participant

        Canada Member

        imo…but all up to you  and  how adventurous you are 🙂

        1. Where is the best place to get reprints of the service and owners manuals?  see #10  below
        2. Where are the best places to get parts?   most parts can beordered by a willing dealer 
        3. I’m planning to rebuild the carburetor using a new kit.   “”      “”
        4. I’m also planning to rebuild the ignition system with a new kit.    “”
        5. Should I remove the head to do a better inspection of the cylinders and install a new head gasket for good measure?     just test compression  if ok  don’t fix it 
        6. Would it be overkill to disassemble any other parts of the engine unless I feel like there’s a problem?   yes….  theengine may be fine
        7. Last year when I posted, fleetwin warned me there could be wear in the wrist pin because there are no needle bearings.  I have to confess I don’t know what/where this is.  Could someone explain how to check this?   best to read the manual
        8. I plan to completely disassemble the Midsection and Lower Unit, clean them thoroughly, look for wear, replace the impeller and fill the gear case with new grease.  Any other advice?  gearcase uses OIL NOT GREASE !!!    just pressuretest the gear case  if ok just refill …for now 
        9. The motor still has the original two line system, but the tank is a lost cause (filled with piles of rust).  Should I be searching for a two line tank to replace the original or converting to a single line system?  up to you ….. purists love  2 line tanks…. me I install pumps   see utube for easy conversion and  timing  (easy) 
        10. Any other comments or suggestions?   download the  RED JOHNSON SERVICE MANUAL  (RED BOOK) under  Garry Spencer’s drop box in the lower library section  under inner sanctum under  MEMBERS ONLY  section .  Suggest you redo all electricals (check for cracked coils, bad condensers, plug wires & boots ,  points can be touched up if still good   etc…) 

        missing   knobs….        try to locate  real ones…. but  certain radio knobs can do the job.   missing gromets can be ordered

        http://www.nymarine.ca/grommets.htm

        Johnson (leeroysramblings.com)

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtG4M7ye1N8

         

        Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

        June 26, 2023 at 6:24 pm #277444
        mit&t
        Participant

          Thanks very much, crosbyman!

          June 27, 2023 at 9:22 am #277475
          labrador-guy
          Participant

            US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

            For your information the original leg for the ’58 10hp came from the 7-1/2  5-1/2 motor.  The 15 hp leg we call the 5 bolt gear case is much better.   The original probably disintegrated and someone updated it.  Power head is first rate and they performed well.  I like the pressure tanks but good ones are getting hard to find.   JMHO

            dale

            June 27, 2023 at 10:59 am #277486
            mit&t
            Participant

              Ahhh, great information.  Thanks, Dale!

              June 27, 2023 at 12:53 pm #277490
              fleetwin
              Participant

                US Member

                Please examine this powerhead closely.  These 10hp powerheads were prone to premature wrist pin slop.  So, you will want to carefully/gently rock the flywheel back and forth, using a dowel to check for rod slop before spending too much time on this project.  I too, would leave this engine “as is” on this leg, provided the larger gearcase is in good shape.

                June 27, 2023 at 7:08 pm #277509
                mit&t
                Participant

                  Just to to clarify on checking for rod slop, do you rotate the flywheel to get a piston at bottom dead center and hold it there with a dowel down through the spark plug hole, and then gently rotate the flywheel clockwise and counter clockwise and try to feel slop in the wrist pin?  Then repeat on the other cylinder?  Thanks.
                  Martin

                  June 28, 2023 at 8:11 am #277522
                  stanley
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    I rotate flywheel until piston is about half way on down stroke and then  push against it with dowel.You’ll hear/feel if there is any slop.If it’s bad enough you can hear it (with plugs out) by gently rocking flywheel back and forth.

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                    mit&t
                    June 29, 2023 at 12:08 pm #277575
                    fleetwin
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      Yes, I would put the piston(s) at about the middle of the stroke.  While one piston is on its upward stroke, rotate the flywheel backwards ever so slightly…Now insert the wooden dowel inside the plug hole and try to push the piston downwards, you will feel the piston move and hear a little clunk if slop is an issue.  Oftentimes you will hear the clunk just by rocking the flywheel back and forth slightly with both pistons in the middle of their stroke.  Please don’t turn the flywheel backwards excessively though, you might jam/snap the rubber veins off the water pump impeller.  Keep in mind these engines have a fairly loose piston to cylinder fit, so don’t mistake normal sideways piston slop with actual rod slop.

                      1 user thanked author for this post.
                      mit&t
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