OK – I tried the 5/16 roll-pin removal punch to get that bushing out on both a scrap housing and on the stuck Bushing in the ’59 35 HP Lark housing and it worked great on both! At first, as the punch went through the aluminum hole above the brass bushing, I had to give it a couple very small taps, as it appeared to be a very slight interference fit in the aluminum. Then, hitting a bit harder each time with my short-handled, 5 pound sledge, without a whole lot of effort, Both bushings easily punched out. The one I had tapped, I put threaded rod in from the underside far enough to just meet the punch at the top of the hole in the bushing , as I wasn’t sure if the punch might just wipe out (strip) the threads instead of pushing out the bushing. I got the roll-pin punch set at Home Depot a few months ago to use on my snowblower, and now highly recommend it for driving out the shift rod bushing! The one in the scrap housing had not been tapped, so that will go into the Lark housing with the new O-ring.
To follow up on another post I made about the same motor (swapping the ’59 35 Lark Gearcase onto a ’65 40 HP) Yes – the 1974 Johnson parts swapping book was correct, as the assembled gearcases swap, but had to reuse the 1965 water pump and driveshaft, as thje lark driveshaft had a pin to turn the impeller and the ’65 40 HP had a Woodruff key.
FYI: On this gearcase swap, I found that the gearcase on the 40 HP had a major disintegration of parts (bearings and washers) around the crankshaft below the water pump. The driveshaft was quite galled-up for 4 or 5 inches below the water pump. Someone had taken it apart and cleaned out all the broken, ground up pieces (washers, bearings, etc), and put it back together using the galled up driveshaft, leaving ground up parts out, not replacing them! The center hole in the impeller plate was ground up to about 1/8 inch larger all the way around, as was the metal on the seal below it. The strap with two screws that goes over the bottom of the pinion gear to hold it in place was also missing; and two small holes were drilled in the shift dog fork, with a piece of thin, steel wire put through those holes and around the shift dog, then twisted together, probably to hold the fork on the shift dog parts during reassembly; so good thing I had the gearcase from the 35 Lark. I can’t imagine who would put this thing back together like that with a total of 8 parts missing, and install the gearcase back on the motor! The parts swap manual said the 35 Lark gearcase would swap onto the 40 except for water pump and driveshaft, and it was correct. The 40 had a long driveshaft and the 35 had a short, so had to find another long driveshaft. I had one possibility – a 1969 40 long shaft with electric shift parts motor. The parts swap manual didn’t show the electric shift model as a driveshaft swap, but I looked up the driveshaft part numbers and they were the same, so got the shaft out of it, and yes – it was the same. Now to put in the seal kit and reassemble. I will use the propshaft and gear assembly from the 35 , as the bearings in the one from the 40 are likely damaged from all the ground up parts. The long shift rod from the 40 was not damaged – wo will reuse it in place of the short rod that was in the 35.
Word is the boat sat in a field for 9 years, and the guy I’m fixing it for was given the boat and motor free from a friend.
Dave
Here’s a link to the roll pin punch set I got at Home Depot:
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