Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1960 Evinrude 5.5 hp
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Steve A W.
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October 2, 2015 at 2:25 am #2682
I tore apart the lower unit today, and glad to see the mice didn’t
damage that too! Had a couple of questions.-I see there’s an O-ring to replace under the shift rod bushing.
What’s the best way to remove the bushing to get at the o-ring?
My manual doesn’t mention that.-Is the shift dog on this model "reverseable"? I haven’t taken it off the prop
shaft yet, but can see a little rounding on the corners.Probably more questions to come. Presume I can search what sealer
to use on the lower unit spaghetti seal, etc…… wish there was
a "sticky" on that sticky subject!
Thanks.Prepare to be boarded!
October 2, 2015 at 9:47 am #249853M 847 is the sealer.
The dog can be flipped. there are a few members that sell NOS dogs very reasonable.
Frank R makes a tool to remove the bushing. Or you can grind down a piece of 5/16" rod, down to about 1/4", over a couple inches. Then use that to drive it out. Or you can tap the end of the pushing, and thread in a bolt and pull it out.
October 2, 2015 at 12:12 pm #24988Here is a link that explains. Also if you go to the home page of that link you will see a bunch of nicely made tools.
http://www.franksoutboardtools.com/shif … mover.html
October 2, 2015 at 12:26 pm #24989Thanks for the replies. My bushing looks like it would have to
be removed and installed from the top side.
Was Frank’s tool a stepped rod inserted from the bottom?
If so, then the hole in the casing below the bushing would have
to be bigger that the bushing hole…. will have to check that
out. Easy enough to turn a rod on the lathe. Thanks!Prepare to be boarded!
October 2, 2015 at 9:02 pm #25019the tool he made or the rod either one goes in from the bottom and pushes it out the top
Doug
how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?October 2, 2015 at 9:25 pm #25020I turned a 3/8" rod down to .250 on the end for 3/4" or so, then
turned the next 3/4" down to .290…… it looked a litle
crude, but worked slick.The reverse gear has a bronze bushing in it. Is it suppose to be
a press fit? The gear turns on the bushing just a little easier than
the bushing turns on the shaft. Can’t feel any slop in it.
There’s a oil hole in the bushing and one in the gear bore, that
I presume should be lined up, and the bushing should not spin
in the gear. Correct?
Would it work to clean it up good and use a little loc-tite to hold
the bushing in the gear?
Thanks.Prepare to be boarded!
October 2, 2015 at 9:37 pm #25021No the reverse gear bushing free spins, the forward gear is locked however. Do not loc tite it.
October 2, 2015 at 10:17 pm #25024Thanks Chris! Any idea why gear spins on the bushing, plus
the bushing spins on the prop shaft?Prepare to be boarded!
October 2, 2015 at 11:44 pm #25027quote Buccaneer:Thanks Chris! Any idea why gear spins on the bushing, plus
the bushing spins on the prop shaft?
If you study the way the gearcase works, you’ll notice that one gear is always spinning in the opposite direction of the other one. Since the motor is engaged in forward gear 99% of the time, the reverse gear needs all the help it can get in the bearing department as the prop shaft is turning just as fast as it is but in the opposite direction. If the bushing was solid with the gear, either it or the shaft would soon wear out. This is why the bushing should spin freely in both parts, so they can share the load.October 2, 2015 at 11:56 pm #25028Glad I asked first before I got out the loc-tite!
Thanks!
Just looked thru my stash of gasket sealers.
I have no 3M 847 for the gear case spaghetti seal.
For some reason I have a bottle of Aviation Form-a-gasket,
and Yamabond. Wonder if the later would work instead of
847. It’s for sealing metal to metal crankcases with no gaskets…
if memory serves me correct.Prepare to be boarded!
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