Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1960 Evinrude Lark II 40hp Project
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fisherman6.
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December 6, 2016 at 3:20 pm #5843
I’m getting close to starting on the 1960 Lark on the back of the Alumacraft Flying C I bought this Fall. The guy I bought the boat from claimed it runs perfect. I have not yet tried to start it, but just looking at it I can say with confidence it will not run "perfect." I plan to go through the motor and do all the usual stuff it needs to be a reliable regular runner. I’m not used to working on bigger motors like I am the under 20hp ones. I know it’s mostly the same but there are a few things I need to learn about this one.
My first question is regarding the throttle linkage. It has the usual cam and roller arrangement which I’m so familiar with but it also has a linkage with a rod connected to the throttle that opens the carb with the spark advance. This rod opens the carb much earlier than the roller would. I could maybe see this rod as a safety devices that would close the throttle with the lever in the event of a spring failure for the roller. It seems wrong to me that it takes over and lifts the roller off the cam though. It also seems to fully open the carb before full spark advance is reached and prevent full spark advance. This all seems off to me. 😕 Can someone fill me in on how this system is supposed to work?
I can post pics later this evening if that would help. Thank you all in advance for your help.
-Ben
OldJohnnyRude on YouTube
December 6, 2016 at 5:31 pm #48654The rod is a fuel saver device. It obviously is adjusted totally wrong.
OK, here is how to proceed. Loosen the setscrew on that rod and slide the barrel along the rod so it doesn’t do anything for now. Then set the throttle pickup point as you are used to doing. EXCEPT the throttle does not start to open when the roller is aligned with the mark on the brass cam. Look to the left of the roller and you will see an upward pointing projection on the intake manifold. Set the spark advance so the mark on the cam aligns with that pointer (not the roller). When the pointer and mark are aligned, that is when the carb should just barely be ready to start opening.
Having done that, now move on to the fuel saver rod. With shift in forward gear, advance throttle to full advance position (bangs up against the projection on top off cylinder block. With spark advance in that position, contact should be made with the set collar on the rod. Further movement of the control will compress the spring on top of the vertical shaft and go "over center". That kicks the carburetor to WOT position. Backing off on the control will partially close the carb while maintaining full spark advance. That is the fuel saver position.
December 6, 2016 at 6:22 pm #48656Thank you very much for that explanation Frank. That makes sense. It is certainly adjusted completely wrong. I’m sure that, the loose hanging carb adjustment linkages, and the cracked insulation on many of the wires are just the beginning of what I may find on this "perfect" running engine. It’s comical when people try to say something is perfect when it is glaringly obvious it isn’t.
I’ll post again as progress is made.
-Ben
OldJohnnyRude on YouTube
December 7, 2016 at 7:29 am #48727Thank you for this clear explanation. I’m starting to work on one of these big twins and that linkage is not entirely obvious. It does seem remarkable that, except for having electricals, and that "gas saver" linkage,the motor differs little in design from the 3 hp I’m also working on. A 40 hp Merc would have 4 cylinders, a belt driven magneto….
December 7, 2016 at 11:34 am #48736Yep. OMC kept things simple 😉
December 7, 2016 at 12:45 pm #48740Does the fuel saver linkage work well enough to be considered useful? I’ve always wondered how much fuel per hour it would save.
Wayne
Upper Canada Chapteruccaomci.com
December 7, 2016 at 4:58 pm #48770quote wbeaton:Does the fuel saver linkage work well enough to be considered useful? I’ve always wondered how much fuel per hour it would save.Yes – it works good if you remember to go to wide open throttle, and then back it off a little.
DaveDecember 7, 2016 at 5:30 pm #48775It depends a lot on the boat it is on. If it has to lug along at WOT to stay up to speed on plane, it won’t help much because it will start to sink down off plane when you back off on the throttle. On the other hand, on a nice boat that planes easily and maintains it’s speed when you back off to the fuel saver position, it does make a difference.
December 7, 2016 at 8:47 pm #48792Mine is on a 1959 Alumacraft Flying C 15 foot runabout. It isn’t a real heavy hull and should scoot along nicely with the 40hp pushing. I’d have to look the weight up again in the info I got from Alumacraft, but it’s somewhere just north for 400lbs. That said, it seems this may be a worthwhile feature to retain if possible. I sure appreciate the help everyone.
-BenOldJohnnyRude on YouTube
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