Home Forum Ask A Member 1960 Merc 400 won’t idle

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  • #243562
    Robert Bourque
    Participant

      Hello all,

      I just joined; but I wish I had been aware of this club years ago. I have a 1954 14′ Penn Yan Swift that is nicely restored and the transom has been reinforced. I have run it with vintage Mercury Mark 55 and 58A, and Merc 400 motors, both short and long shaft.

      I just bought a Merc 400 short block for only $100. Turns out it has very good compression (at least 105 psi at 7000′ above sea level) and the end seals are very good. The other parts – mag, carbs, starter, and fuel pump, are from my original Merc 400, which has two stripped spark plug holes.

      I have started up the motor in my water test tank. But it will only run with the throttle advanced as far as it will go in neutral. When I start backing off the throttle, it quickly stalls.

      I cleaned the carbs and ran sealer around the flanges when I reinstalled them. The idle jets are set at the original setting – about 3/4 turn from closed. When I change that setting it has only a minor effect. I then replaced the carbs with another pair that were totally cleaned. Same result.

      I can back off the throttle and get it to run a little slower by applying some choke, but not very much slower.

      I wondered if I had an air leak somewhere, but I can’t trace it. I replaced the bleed line and fittings, but that did nothing. I get a good spark when I crank it, so the mag seems OK. Plugs are new.

      I checked to see if air is blowing out of the carbs, indicating reed valve problems. But I couldn’t detect any. But could it still be the reed valves? I sure hope not. Could it be some crud stuck on them, and could I get it off with some additive?

      As I said, it runs fine at medium rpm – with the throttle pushed up to the stop in neutral. But it stalls once I try to close the throttle even a little.

      So I’m at a loss. I sure hope one of you can help.

      Thanks, Bob

      #243568
      dave-bernard
      Participant

        US Member

        call me 1 914 310 7086. Dave. check mag points .008 – .010. change the dis. cap IF it is a dark color green black. Tan gray or blue are fine.

        #243603
        billw
        Participant

          US Member

          Did your old 400 ever idle that you know of, prior to the striped spark plug holes? Just trying to guess whether the problem is with your old stuff or the newer block. I am a lot more of a two-cylinder guy than a four guy; but from what you have said and considering the swapping situation, I would double and triple check the belt alignment, before getting too deep into the exotics like Mercury reed valves. The other easy thing is to make sure that the two throttle plates are opening at EXACTLY the same time.

          Long live American manufacturing!

          • This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by billw.
          • This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by billw.
          #243611
          Robert Bourque
          Participant

            I really appreciate the reply. The carbs and mag came from the old block that had the bad plugs. They ran fine then. The belt between the flywheel and mag is good. The fuel pump was rebuilt.

            As I said, it runs fine with the throttle pushed up to the neutral stop. When I bypass that stop and push the throttle further, it still runs fine. It’s just when I try to drop back to idle, just a little, that it suddenly quits.

            I replaced the carbs with another set that were thoroughly cleaned first. I get the same result – no idle.

            I suspect air is somehow getting into the new block behind the carbs. The leaning out from that leak will have a bigger effect with partly closed throttles rather than open.

            Today I will run it again in the water tank. I will spray starter fluid around the block to see if that affects operation. If it does, I’ve found a leak. I will tape vacuum cleaner hoses to the carbs so the air they bring in with away from the starter fluid. That will also tell me if the reed valves are bad. If they are, the air would just slosh back and forth in the tubes.

            Again, thanks. This is still a big mystery that I’m determined to solve.

            Bob

            #243630
            dave-bernard
            Participant

              US Member

              Is the belt timed correctly??????

              #243635
              Pondrocket
              Keymaster

                Lifetime Member

                Bob,

                Will you post a video of running in the tank… No Starter fluid..

                Travis

                Travis
                AOMCI VP Communications
                AOMCI Webmaster
                webmaster@aomci.org

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