Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1961 40 Lark Voltage Regulator
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Mumbles.
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August 29, 2016 at 10:16 pm #5101
I just finished bringing a 1961 40 Lark back to life that obviously hadn’t been run for decades, and it’s runin’ sweet! When I removed the voltage regulator cover, it was obvious that water had sat in it, about 1/3rd full for an extended period of time, rusting the rear of the relays and the springs badly. The relay springs are close to breaking from rust. I haven’t been able to find an aftermarket regulator, but noticed on it’s frame it says it’s an Autolite, which would be Ford – is this original? or did someone cobble in a car regulator?
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I’m thinking an automotive regulator would probably duplicate the voltage and circuit breaker relay functions, but probably not have the right spec for the center current sensing relay, since we are only talking 10 Amps here. What do you recommend I use?
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I had brief thoughts of designing a solid state replacement regulator, since I’m a retired circuit designer, but I don’t want to take the time to design, build, package, and debug one.
DaveAugust 29, 2016 at 10:31 pm #42900You can use a Harley 10 amp, ill dig up the part number I have used. Its the only one I have found so far to be compatible.
August 29, 2016 at 11:33 pm #42904Solid State regulator for a Harley. I think the number is 381-309 from J P Cycles. But my info is old. Be sure you get the 10 Amp one for a DC Generator. Again, I think it fits 1965-69 FL and 56-77 Sportster. Or something like that. Check it out.
Minor mounting and wiring required.
August 29, 2016 at 11:40 pm #42905OR–here ya go, the original kind at a steal price. OMC gets $100.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/harley-sportste … Ev&vxp=mtrAugust 29, 2016 at 11:45 pm #42906This should be the solid state one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-New-Premium … gz&vxp=mtrAugust 30, 2016 at 3:01 pm #42943Thanks Frank, I’ll look into those Harley regulators.
DaveAugust 30, 2016 at 6:44 pm #42961You can probably get a current regulator into range by easing the spring tension.
August 31, 2016 at 4:08 pm #43044quote amuller:You can probably get a current regulator into range by easing the spring tension.Yeah I thought about that, but I’d need to set up a dummy 10 Amp load to calibrate it. I ordered the mechanical Harley regulator Frank mentioned. For the amazingly cheap price and free shipping, I’m going the easy route!
Thanks for the suggestion.
DaveSeptember 5, 2016 at 2:21 pm #43328I got the new mechanical Harley replacement regulator Frank mentioned (Thanks Frank!). It is approx. 1/2 inch thicker than the old one and won’t fit inside the solenoid box cover without hitting the solenoid, but no problem, as I’m going to take a thin, no-regulator, solenoid box cover and mount the regulator on the outside of it. I have to make wires a bit longer, but have to rework the wires anyway because a mouse had made the sonenoid box her home and ate a lot of the wire insulation. Where it mounts in the boat, there is no chance of any metal shorting to the regulator terminals or it’s metal case. Note the metal case on the Harley regulator is not common to battery negative (unlike the original regulator) and the it’s mounting holes have rubber inserts,etc. to assure isolation from ground-negative.
DaveSeptember 5, 2016 at 3:03 pm #43333What about the smaller Bosch style regulator for kick start Harleys? This is what my XLCH uses and is rated at 10 amps.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-12V-VOLTA … 1638428383
Some guys used to replace these with Volkswagen regulators as they were cheaper than the Harley ones.
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