Home Forum Ask A Member 1963 EVINRUDE 40HP RETEST AND EVALUATION (PART 2)

Viewing 6 posts - 11 through 16 (of 16 total)
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  • #28688
    fleetwin
    Participant

      US Member

      Jim
      Thanks for clarifying things for me, unfortunately I could not access those pictures in your latest link. At this point, I feel that your problem could still be either fuel or ignition related, so let’s just stick with simple things for now. Don’t disassemble that fuel pump again, I really don’t think there is a restriction inside the pump, your fuel pump filter is new. Pumping the fuel bulb bypasses the pump, and you have already done this at WOT which did not solve the stalling problem. But, be sure to check your fuel supply for water/contamination, this surely could cause the engine to cut out at high speeds.
      Thanks for clarifying about the high speed jet, you were wise not to continue with the regular screwdriver, you really need the special tool. I suppose it is possible to grind down a screwdriver to fit OK, the correct part number for the jet screwdriver is: 317002. Snap on makes a nice socket/screwdriver that fits over those inlet needle seats, helping to prevent hacking up the odd sized slot. Needless to say, there could be a hunk of dirt/debris in one of these two areas that intermittently blocks the fuel supply causing the engine to shut down like that. Don’t pull that carb apart until you have some sort of tool/method planned for removing these parts without damaging them. For now, I would go ahead and place a little glass pan under the bowl drain, remove the plug, and pump the fuel bulb while looking for debris flowing out of the carb into the pan. This will only take a few minutes, who knows, maybe you will get lucky.
      OK, thanks for letting me know about getting shocked from that key switch wiring. Again, faulty/wet boat wiring could certainly cause your engine to stall out like that. Please go ahead and disconnect those ignition plate primary leads from the engine harness and restest, this will only take a few minutes as well. I’m pretty sure there are just two plastic connectors that are easily unsnapped, but there may be rubber sleeves covering knife connectors. I tried to access a good parts breakdown, but had no luck. Post pictures if you are unsure which wires to disconnect. Once the leads are disconnected, tape up the mag plate ends so they cant short to ground or get wet and retest. Please remember that you won’t be able to shut the engine off with the key switch, you will need to flood it with the choke. Those funky plug leads could be getting wet causing the engine to cut out as well, the correct part number for new 90 degree boots/spring connectors is: 581027

      #28690
      fleetwin
      Participant

        US Member

        PS- Maybe this breakdown will help:
        http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … neto+Group
        Looks like you might have one knife connector, and the other leads bolts directly onto the vacuum switch….

        #28692
        Casey Lynn
        Participant

          US Member

          Snap-On has a Dzus fastener tool that you can do just a touch of grinding on and it is perfect for the needle seats. Looks like a screw driver with a paddle blade.

          Am wondering, at this point, did you ever purchase and install a complete carb kit in this engine?

          #28718
          Casey Lynn
          Participant

            US Member

            There is no need for two threads on this engine.
            At this point I see that you did not remove either the high speed jet or the needle seat and you have a high speed surge….. So….all you basically have done is do a little cleaning in the carb and re-used all the old parts. Trying to clean without removing all the parts and not replace any old or worn parts will produce these results.
            Do yourself a favor and buy an OEM kit. Completely disassemble the carburetor, clean all passages, install the new parts, replace all fuel lines and be done with it!!
            You will probably find debris under the seat, a nozzle gasket that is too old to seal anymore, or varnish or debris around the high speed jet when you do. If the hs jet is difficult to remove use heat from a propane torch around the threaded area and it will come right out.

            #28755
            retroman
            Participant

              thanks Pal

              #28762
              Casey Lynn
              Participant

                US Member

                Here is a pic of the tool I use to remove the seats in the carburetor. A large flat blade screwdriver and a few minutes on a bench grinder will do the same thing for your usage.

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