Home Forum Ask A Member 1963 Evinrude Sportwin weird problem

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  • #235610
    Mumbles
    Participant

      The lower part of the key has to be slightly above the cranks surface as it drives the points cam. Is the 301967 O ring a proper OMC replacement part? They are special and an off the shelf one wont work as they can be too thick and break the carbon seal while reassembling.

      Here’s a flywheel the same as yours with a crack in it rendering it useless.

      C

      Cracked-QD-Flywheel

      #235629
      bfitz241
      Participant

        US Member

        Is the flywheel taper damaged/cracked allowing the flywheel to come down lower on the crankshaft than it should? Post some pictures of how you are assembling the carbon seal/spring/cam, hopefully it is something simple…Sorry about the damaged carbon seals…
        You mention that the point cam goes below the key, so it more or less spins freely on the crank? Seems like some sort of assembly sequence error…

        I think the answer was in this post. I think the flywheel taper is spread, allowing the flywheel to push the cam below the key, and mashing down on the carbon seal, thus breaking it. I’ve seen it happen before.

        So what damaged the flywheel??? More than likely somebody in the past has tightened it with an impact wrench. There is a reason it must be tightened with a torque wrench. Another thing I’ve seen in the past is somebody greased the tapers, making them slippery and move downward too far. Again, there is a reason the tapers must be clean and dry.

        Whatever the case, the flywheel is destroyed and must be replaced.

        This is probably what happened. I took pictures but they’re too big to post. I measured the length of the crank snout and the length of all the parts. After subtracting the flywheel length, point cam thickness and carbon seal, there is only .0905 left for the 2 brass washers and the spring. I don’t think that’s enough.

        This causes me to ask the next question…is there a spacer that goes under the flywheel nut? As it sits now, the flywheel sits almost flush with the last thread on the crank. No visible cracks in the flywheel. I don’t have any gauges to measure the ID of the tunnel.

        Anyone have a good flywheel for sale?

        Thanks for all your help and consideration. This was driving me nuts.

        #235630
        bfitz241
        Participant

          US Member

          As to the O ring, I bought one when I bought the carbon seal. As to what it actually is, I really don’t know. Seems to fit OK

          #235634
          frankr
          Participant

            US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

            No spacer goes under the flywheel nut. What you just said further verifies it is stretched by using an impact wrench on it.

            #235643
            ede
            Participant

              US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

              bfitz241, saw your ad for flywheel I can do a NOS or used flywheel, your choice. Ed Elliott, member aomci eddelliott@cox.net

              #235689
              bfitz241
              Participant

                US Member

                No spacer goes under the flywheel nut. What you just said further verifies it is stretched by using an impact wrench on it.

                I appreciate your help. Since it’s done this since I bought it, it must have happened in the past.
                Would you recommend putting a washer under the nut?

                #235691
                fleetwin
                Participant

                  US Member

                  No spacer goes under the flywheel nut. What you just said further verifies it is stretched by using an impact wrench on it.

                  I appreciate your help. Since it’s done this since I bought it, it must have happened in the past.
                  Would you recommend putting a washer under the nut?

                  No, that is not a solution…The problem is like Frank says…At some point, someone over torqued that flywheel nut, perhaps they put it on with a powerful impact gun, which has spread the taper open allowing the flywheel to sit lower on the crankshaft than it should. Pull the flywheel and have a very close look at the hub, perhaps you will see a crack like the one Mumbles posted. I would replace the flywheel. I’m sure you can find a used one for a reasonable price…I will have a look in my pile the next time I’m down cellar…You can have it for the shipping costs if I have one…
                  Beware, that not all 10hp flywheels are the same, you need one from a 58 and newer 10hp…D

                  #235699
                  Mumbles
                  Participant

                    It should be mentioned to that when reinstalling the flywheel on a ten horse, the high point of the points cam should be positioned between the two rubbing blocks on the points. If not, the seals spring can hold the cam above the rubbing blocks which will damage the rubbing blocks if the flywheel is forced on.

                    #235715
                    fleetwin
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      It should be mentioned to that when reinstalling the flywheel on a ten horse, the high point of the points cam should be positioned between the two rubbing blocks on the points. If not, the seals spring can hold the cam above the rubbing blocks which will damage the rubbing blocks if the flywheel is forced on.

                      Great advice….The same advice applies to the points as well….

                      #236025
                      bfitz241
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        got a new flywheel. Set it on to check alignment, the difference is visible. Still haven’t torqued the nut. Going to check the timing again before I do that. Hope to not hear that cracking sound carbon marks as it shatters.

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