Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1964 Evinrude 9.5? Identify and Maintenance
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joecb.
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July 26, 2023 at 6:39 am #278507
Fleetwin – what is the special tool I need to remove that fixed jet? In the video on the carb rebuild, he seems to just unscrew it.
The OMC special tool part number is 317002 for the fixed jet screwdriver. Going in there with a regular screwdriver will bung up the threads, damage the jet, and introduce more debris into the carburetor. So, I would agree that trying to clean it out while still installed is better than trying to take it out with a regular screwdriver and making more of a mess. Just spraying carburetor cleaner in there probably isn’t going to solve the issue. Like I say, I have used a felt pipe cleaner on fixed jets on the larger engines, but am guessing the opening on your jet is way too small for most pipe cleaners. The OMC tool is a must for anyone serious about this hobby who collects OMC outboards, as is the OMC flywheel puller.
But, once again, let’s back up. Have you taken the carb apart? If not, let’s do the simple things I mentioned in a previous post before ripping into this carb. Don
July 27, 2023 at 8:57 pm #278561Hey fellas (and any ladies):
Ok so event though I got the flywheel off (had to retap the 3 holes to a larger size and cut new 1/4 bolts)
I put it back on, dropped some gas into the carb, put the lower end in water, and pulled the cord.The engine spouted to life and ran for about 3-4 seconds. Sounded strong.
I have been having problems with the gas line from the tank with the bulb (more on that later), so I had disconnected it. I assume the only reason it stopped is beacuse of this.
So – Can you explain how to tighten the connection from the gas tank tube to the engine? Everytime I pump it it sprays out the sides. What is the proper way to connect and pump the gas? I am so green here.
I’m so close!
July 27, 2023 at 8:58 pm #278562Don:
I did not clean the carb yet. But as I mentioned in the post above, it started fine but dies for lack of fuel line (I had disconnected it). I can only assume that means once I reattach the fuel line, it will be fine?
July 27, 2023 at 9:33 pm #278564hoses are all clamped on barbs from the side connector to the fuel pump inlet no reason to leak under pressure if clamped properly and the hose is the correct diameter .
if it is the side connector leaking……….. the female end of the hose connector has a faulty or missing oring or the clip is loose. it should lock in place
they are replaceable but boat shops have end connectors for sale or… amazon so if that is the problem it is simpler to just replace the hose end connector to the engine.
some connectors ” look a like ” so choose OMC EVINRUDE JOHNSON connectors
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July 28, 2023 at 6:28 am #278582Don:
I did not clean the carb yet. But as I mentioned in the post above, it started fine but dies for lack of fuel line (I had disconnected it). I can only assume that means once I reattach the fuel line, it will be fine?
It is normal for the engine connector to dribble fuel out when the fuel line is not attached. Does this connection leak even with the line connected? If so, there are a few possible causes. Most likely it is the fuel connector from the gas tank, there is an oring inside that seals against the fuel prong. Probably best to replace it, might be best to replace the whole fuel line as well, but spend the money for the good OEM stuff. Most aftermarket set ups won’t last long.
It is possible that the fuel is leaking from the fuel line that connects to the connector on the engine side, or perhaps the fuel fitting is damaged/NG, but most likely issue is the connector on the fuel tank’s fuel line.
You mention having the flywheel off, I won’t ask why you retapped the threads…. But, did you retorque the flywheel properly? If not properly torqued, you may shear the flywheel key, lose spark, and damage the tapered crank/flywheel mating surfaces.
July 28, 2023 at 10:48 am #278586Any advice on how to torque the flywheel properly? Maybe a video?
I will also check the Leroy file.
The pump is leaking directly where the hose connects to the engine.
I have 2 tanks, so I attached the other one (after transferring the fuel oil mix) and I put a little fuel down the carburetor and it started up for me. I ran it for about 1-2 minutes, then shut it off.
It wouldn’t start without that fuel dump. I suppose I should clean the carb after all.
I should probably mention that my uncle was the son of a machinist and did a fair amount himself, and he built his own boats. So based on this, and the fact that I was able to get it going without much trouble (ingnoring my unneccesary removal of the FW) I believe other than a carb clearning, this engine was probably well taken care of and is in good shape.
I am a little worried about how deep the water container that I put the lower end in has to be. Does the entire lower end have to be in the water? I have it as deep as a 5 gallon bucket. Do I need a deeper container?
Anyway, I am about to take it out to the lake and try to start it up. I will check on the Flywheel question. All I did was seat it in place and then tap with a heavy hammer all around the edge several times until it didn’t go down any more. Let me know what else I need to do.
Thanks for everything!
July 28, 2023 at 11:48 am #278587don’t go far on the lake !! regardlesss of the previous owner’s abililities you don’t want to find out the coils are cracked and sparking to ground 2 miles out. do what needs to be done and have a nice running engine and a happy wife if one have one.
folks here give you recomendations based on experience……
it is up to you to follow-up or go boating at your risk and peril . All these old motors have crackecoils due to the chemisty of the epoxies of the time. same for condensers of unknown age. Points can be ” touched up” but they to do not last forever.
test the water pump with 6-8 inches above the impeller .. use a large garbage can
these pumps do not suck they just push water up the water tube.
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July 31, 2023 at 5:51 pm #278695Torquing one of these flywheel nuts is a little tricky because there is usually no easy way to hold the round flywheel in place while torquing the nut. Be very careful trying to jam the flywheel with a screwdriver or something like that, good way to break the flywheel or engine block casting. Using a big strap wrench is the best/safest way to torque the flywheel correctly. Not enough torque can result in a sheared flywheel key which will kill spark and damage flywheel/crank tapers. Over torque (using an impact gun) can push the flywheel too far down onto the crank, distort the tapers, and damage ignition components.
But, let’s back up a bit. From what I have read, it seems like you have some sort of carb/fuel delivery issue keeping the engine from running right. It seems like you do have to pull that flywheel off to access all of the carburetor attaching screws. So, perhaps it is best to pull that flywheel back off, so the carb can be removed, disassembled and cleaned.
July 31, 2023 at 8:41 pm #278704frankly… I really do not recall pulling the FW to take the top of the carb if carefull not to drop ant screw…..I will have to look at my 9.5hp…again some day
Leroy says…
Carburetor : These motors have a unique carburetor system in that the carburetor sets near the rear of the motor, apparently a design to allow for the lower cowling profile. The carburetor is placed on the rear starboard side of the block, making the top 1/2 of the carburetor removal easy.
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August 1, 2023 at 9:44 pm #278734Ok…
I took the boat out on Sunday. I got on the water, rowed away from the dock, and tried a few times to start the engine, spraying starter fluid into the carb. I finally got it started and shifted into gear and had a great time riding around the lake a bit.
Then… The engine overheated bad. The engine sputtered and stopped. It was smoking from under the cover. I took the cover off and bailed water onto the engine block until it stopped sizzling. I rowed back and brought the boat home.
A few observations… When I first got the boaat into the water, around the motor there was that rainbow oil stain on the water. That may have been all the fuel mix that had sprayed and run down the sides of the motor when it was leaking previously. But it seemed weird to me and I was worried I had a leak of some type. But it wasnt a lot and it didnt show on the water like that at any other time.
Also, right before the motor quit, the audible pitch of the motor kind of went lower. It sounded as if the motor had been lowered into the water much deeper and I was hearing the sound from a deeper place under water. I mean, it sounded like that. The position of the engine didnt change.
I have no idea what to do other than clean the carb if that helps. Could a dirty carb be the problem?
Please advise. I have the bug now and I want to get on out there again!
Martin
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