I was previously asking about the ignition tune up. I ordered points and condenser from the dealer, removed the flywheel — and preparing to replace them. I watched member suggested vid on utube. When adjusting the new points it says set them to .020. The points come with a thin small piece of paper – is that for gapping or should I get a metal gauge? Also do I need to align the flywheel to any lines to get the timing right?
Lower end question: I am replacing the impeller and oil seal. I am having trouble removing the one of the 2 seals — the one under the pump. Is there a trick to remove this without destroying the casing?
No, the paper is not for gapping. Use a metal feeler gauge.
Set the points with the rider portion of the point rocker aligned with the keyway.
As for the seal under the impeller, I lay a block of wood across the housing and use that as my fulcrum point for a screwdriver to pry it out. Work it around as best you can so you’re not pulling it out all on one side. Don’t forget the o-ring under the shift rod bushing!
If you are really getting into this antique outboard hobby, It would pay to invest in some special tools. For pulling seals I use an inturnal three jawed slide hammer (check out Harbor Freight) to remove seals. It pulls evenly and has less danger of distorting the housing. An impact screw driver is invaluable for removing stubborn screws. You hit it with a hammer so the force keeps it in the slot while twisting. A torque wrench and strap wrench are needed for installing Flywheels. (as well as a Flywheel puller. to take them off.) One of our members, Frank Robb, builds duplicates of some of the factory tools that are as good as or better than the factory originals at a very reasonable price. Before Frank’s tools, we would run a tap into the shift rod seal retainer (after removing the shift rod – 8^D) and then used a threaded rod to remove the retainer. Some used a long wire with a hook on the end to pull the "O" ring and a small size long screw driver to push in a new one. THis could scratch the retainer and leave the new "O" ring in worse shape than the old one.