1973 Montgomery Ward 7hp clinton

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  • July 5, 2020 at 12:59 pm #207785
    Bc1972
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      First, many thanks to y’all for your suggestions on my 1958 hp Johnson tune up and special thanks to George (Gainesville) for inviting me up to review my problem. After a few adjustments, runs great.

      Now my new project – 1973 Montgomery Wards 7hp Clinton engine. Do not seem to get spark to plug. I have cleaned the points, replaced spark plug cable, checked the coil with ohm meter. I have tried just holding plug against head and have tried using the cheap plug tester.

      With coil still mounted, disconnected ground and line to points (this model the line to points and the line to condenser join at the point of contact to the point bolt)

      Coil ground wire and line to points zeroed out on meter
      Pulled spark cable from coil, checked coil pin to ground with meter, approximately 6
      Did the same with coil pin to point/condenser lead with meter, approximately 6
      Checked from plug boot to coil ground – approximately 6
      Checked from plug boot to point/condenser lead – approximately 6

      (Condenser and point lead are joined at point of contact – should I have to separate them? Or just predict condenser is okay?

      Thought I would try metering from points open to plug boot, points closed to plug boot – not sure why the reading would be the same, even if that would be an appropriate measure – but both readings were the same – 6. I would have thought with points open the reading would have differen???

      So help would be appreciated

      July 5, 2020 at 2:00 pm #207788
      frankr
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        US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

        As I read them, your results are normal.

        More importantly would be resistance across the points, Should be infinity when open and zero when closed. That means zero, not a couple of ohms. Hopefully, your meter can tell the difference. OR, just polish them up shiny bright and set them to 0.020″ and see what happens.

        Those Clintons didn’t have very spectacular spark, but run anyway.

        • This reply was modified 4 years, 10 months ago by frankr.
        1 user thanked author for this post.
        Bc1972
        July 5, 2020 at 8:41 pm #207856
        Bc1972
        Participant

          Crazy as it seems, with points open or closed I was getting the same reading. So decided to remove the points to further inspect. Could see nothing wrong with them so replaced. Took new readings, and found they were now showing correct as you stated. Checked for fire and had hot spark on plug. I have no idea what changed. Put in some gas and would crank and run for a few seconds. If you have guidance on the calibration of the Tillotson carb, I would appreciate it.

          I did take the carb apart to be sure it wasn’t in bad shape. Cleaned and put back together. Only thing, there was this tiny spring that attached to the float that fell off. I had the hardest time trying to figure out how it went back on. I assumed it was meant to force the float away from the base of the carb body to act against the rising fuel in the bowl. Did I make the correct assumption?? It was not easy to configure with big fingers. I did not have one on the 1958 Johnson 10hp that I took apart so the spring purpose is new to me.

          The motor does need a new water pump – noticed the old one was weak when took apart for inspection, but put back together to see if motor would start. Now that it does, I will order one and a carb kit. Just didn’t want to spend money if couldn’t crank.

          I also converted the fuel inlet valve to the same as my 10hp Johnson. Looked all over for the female fuel line end of the coupler and had no luck.

          July 6, 2020 at 6:00 am #207884
          frankr
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            US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

            If you mean the spring that I am picturing in my mind, it is there cushion the float and needle assembly against the vibration and shaking of the running motor.

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