1974-76 9.9/15 ignition timing

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  • May 8, 2017 at 8:48 am #6952
    PugetSoundBoater
    Participant

      I worked on my friends ’76 Evinrude 15 last spring and was checking it out for him this last week. Last year i totally replaced the ignition system,used Franks tool to set the timing . I then used a timing light and had both cylinders timing marks within the 2 raised marks on the armature plate,as i recall i set the marks towards the right side between those 2 marks. My thinking was to allow for the contacts wear block to wear in and the timing would still be good.
      When i checked the timing today after he has run the motor 15-20 hours since i set the timing,one cylinder is just outside the 2 marks to the right. the other cylinder is right in the middle.
      I had thought if i set the timing to have the marks to the right side of inside the 2 marks on the armature plate, it would still be within as the points wear block wears in a bit, my thinking that the timing marks would migrate to the left.
      In relation to the raised marks on the armature plate, is right of the marks advanced or retarded? As the contact points cam block wears, which way are the timing marks going to move?
      I probably will change the ignition to CD at some point in the future, but for now i kinda enjoy the "Fireflash"challenge
      Thanks Jim PSB

      "Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
      Robbie Robertson

      May 8, 2017 at 1:59 pm #57287
      garry-in-michigan
      Participant

        Lifetime Member

        As the outboards rotation is clockwise, rubbing block ware means the points are less than the 0.020" setting and open later. Thus retarding the timing and moving the mark on the timing tool toward the left in the marks on the magneto base. . . 😉

        May 8, 2017 at 2:12 pm #57290
        joesnuffy
        Participant

          PSB,
          Is the motor running well? Just curious I guess your just checking to see how the timing held up after 20 hours. I do like how your thinking about letting the timing shift as the contact blocks wear.

          I saw where you said you may convert it to a CD motor so not trying to steal your thread.

          I did convert my 1965 9.5hp to the nova modules. I know everyone says their crap but mine work very well and keep my engine firing 180 degrees apart everytime and makes for fantastic trolling and idle very low speeds. I did put new omc factory coils in mine along with the nova modules and I soldered the wires directly to the modules keeping the wires as short as I could and mounting them under the flywheel where points would normally mount. I thought some people may have bad luck with them because the coils might be bad and be burning them up or they mount them with the wires to long. Here is a video of how I did it. I did use a screw like normal points do to secure the coil wire, module wire, and kill wire in case it didn’t work I could go back to points easily.

          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFeSR43hJvo

          I don’t think the conversion will work on the motor your working on because it has magnets on both sides of flywheel. It might work if you only used 1 nova module and used one coil to fire both cylinders by running a 7mm plug jumper wire from one plug to the other thus making a wasted spark style ignition where both plugs fire at same time like my 40hp yamaha does the exact same thing. While one piston is on the down stroke it fires so does the one on the top stroke. Here is a pic of the flywheel used in your engine. You can see the magnets on both sides of flywheel.

          http://www.ebay.com/itm/OMC-JOHNSON-EVI … HG&vxp=mtr

          Here is a pic of the style flywheel on my 1967 9.5hp outboard notice how it has magnets only on one side. This is the type engine I converted and it runs very well.

          http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-OMC-Joh … hg&vxp=mtr

          A lot of older twins have the one set of magnets on flywheels and should work with conversion I am getting ready to convert my 1952 3hp Johnson that my deceased uncle and brother purchased new for duck hunting in St Michaels. I am also going to convert my freshly rebuilt 1962 28hp Johnson also since it will be used on my whaler. Here are pics of the types/styles of flywheels I think should work.

          http://www.ebay.com/itm/1958-Johnson-Se … P2&vxp=mtr

          http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLYWHEEL-1957-J … Ld&vxp=mtr

          Take Care,

          May 8, 2017 at 2:17 pm #57292
          Mumbles
          Participant

            The early 9.9′-15’s can be changed to the later CD ignition as long as the CD flywheel is used. It’s a straight plug and play if you have a donor motor to salvage all the needed parts from.

            May 8, 2017 at 11:33 pm #57321
            fleetwin
            Participant

              US Member

              Did you check the timing with a timing light after you did the work last year?
              In any event, if I am understanding you correctly, yes, it does seem strange that the timing would advance slightly, but I wouldn’t worry about it…Could be nothing more than a bit of slop in the mag plate….

              May 9, 2017 at 4:34 am #57333
              PugetSoundBoater
              Participant

                I did use a timing light after setting the points with Franks’s tool and an analog multimeter. As i recall, i thought i nailed it perfectly setting the points with the meter ,then when i put the flywheel on and hit it with the timing light, it would be off. Start Over. I did this a bunch of times, and may have meant to get the one set of points even closer but never got back to it. It is JUST outside the right mark and runs pretty good for 90/92 psi on both cylinders. I will do a decarb on it when i have some time and we can get the motor to a lake. That will most likely help a bunch.
                I would think that if the mag plate had a bit of play/wobble in the bushing, the timing would move around a bit when the timing light was being used . I recall not feeling any play in the mag plate or upper crank bearing.
                I had written detailed notes on all i did and gave to the owner, he gave me a funny look when i asked for them, like he doesn’t keep things like that.
                I added 1.5 oz of Seafoam to the fuel and will hear back Tues pm how his shrimping trip in the sound went.
                Thanks, Jim PSB

                "Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
                Robbie Robertson

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