Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1976/77 OMC 9.9 & 15 carb needle valve bearing
- This topic has 17 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 12 months ago by
rudderless.
-
AuthorPosts
-
May 4, 2017 at 5:26 am #6918
In the process of rebuilding a 1976 15 hp carb and a ’77 9.9 carb.
On the slow speed needle way down near the tip , there is part (# 20 in parts diagram) Bearing ,needle valve PN 0314166 . I did a forum search and did not see any discussion about installing a new one. I did see Mumbles response about removing the bearing ,he made a small hook on a stiff wire.I was at a friend’s house,he didn’t have any good wire to make that tool .So i improvised,and i hope i improvised well.
The needle valve bearing i was able to get out carefully with a long thin wood screw. Since this bearing is back aways from the needle seat, i very careful turned the wood screw into the bearing, could feel it dig in. I pulled back on the screw and could feel it came out some,but the screw pulled out of the bearing . Repeated 3 times and it came out all the way.
I installed the new one by fitting it on the needle valve tip and slid back towards the threads to where it gently stops. I then screwed the needle valve in with the bearing being pushed down into the hole by the needle till the needle gently bottomed out. I hopefully correctly assume that is the right depth for this bearing,and the correct way to install it.
Please let me know if i have installed this bearing correctly.
Thanks,Jim PSB"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie RobertsonMay 4, 2017 at 11:12 am #57070Good job, and good report. I always just shoved the new one in with a rod or punch till it bottomed out. Don’t know if that is the approved way or not. Thanks.
May 4, 2017 at 11:48 am #57071Well, it is important to realize that this plastic "bearing" is actually a seal that keeps outside air from entering into the low speed mixing chamber through the threads on the needle valve. This piece replaces the conventional fiber packing washers and nut used on most OMC carbs, this plastic cup/seal design was introduced with the carbs used on the 1968 55hp.
I would hesitate to use the screw method you described even though I’m sure it works if done carefully with the right screw. Mumbles’ metal hook design seems a little safer. I can see how the screw threads might lock into the bearing/seal easier than the hook method, but the threads might just go through the plastic and gouge/lock into the carb body as well. I think you installation method is a great one though, the bearing/seal can not be deformed during installation if installed with the needle valve. I don’t know if this installation method will seat the bearing/seal completely, but I guess it will just pull back out with the needle if it was not seated completely.
What confuses me is that some carb break downs don’t show the plastic bearing/seal, how can the needle valve be sealed without it? Perhaps this is just an omission in the diagrams…
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … B+ManifoldMay 4, 2017 at 12:41 pm #57076It is true that the newer carbs do not use the seal. I haven’t examined one to see why not.
May 4, 2017 at 1:20 pm #57080I re-did a few years 75,85,91 9.9/15hp and the cup seal (part#20)was not shown on the 85 and 91 model. I wonder if the 85 91 came with one to begin and if so why they weren’t shown in diagram? The 91 model seemed to be of a better designed carb and better at idling speed than the 75 and 85 models I worked on. A 91 carb would most likely work on a 75-91 with a slight mod possibly to the choke knob an air box on some models but a 91 will bolt up the the air intakes on them I have done it.
I also noticed on all these motors that I had to time the magneto plate to carb correctly to get them to idle well with the carb butterfly not open when it was on the mark on the magneto plate where it rides on the roller that operates the carb butterfly.
I also noticed that carb cleaner would totally mess up the packing piece (retainer needle valve part #21) which was present on all 3 of the carbs I wonder if it messes up the cup seal or (bearing needle valve part #20) like it did the packing piece I am guessing it doesn’t because I didn’t replace the cup seal on any of these 3 motors but I did shoot the carb cleaner down into the hole needle valve screws into to make sure it was clean. I did replace the packing piece on all 3 carbs part#21 which is easy to do even if carb is still attached to motor.
I did work on like a 1995 9.9hp this past winter in Key West. It had the best carb (part#436778) design of any 9.9s Johnson/Evinrude I worked on (IMHO) so far not that I have worked on a ton like many folks reading this. Johnson blocked off the front mixture screw and went with one on the side as you can see how they blocked it off. Their has to be a reason they did that. If you look at the picks on ebay you can see the mixture tube that goes from top of carb to bottom of carb it clam shells to each other when you put the bowl on. I did notice it simplified the way the slow speed fuel got to the engine. I don’t know if it would bolt up to a 75-91 9.9hp air intake manifold bolt pattern but if so a cam follower could possibly be faribricated or attached to this carb it looks like it has a place for one in pics it might be worth the effort especially if it was a daily runner. It by far was the best I worked on as far as 9.9hps go and capable of idling way down with a very consistent idle. The carb on the 1995 part# 436778 I worked on had a choke like the one for sell here on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-2003-Johns … ni&vxp=mtrJust My Humble Opions,
Sorry for rambling but I find these 9.9 carbs interesting and how they kept changing them thru the years.
Joe1975 9.9hp diagram
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … B+Manifold1985
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … B+Manifold1991 9.9hp diagram
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … CarburetorMay 4, 2017 at 2:25 pm #57083From the pictures, it is obvious that the carb body for the 1975 is different in the idle section than the one for 1985. That must somehow explain how come the 1985 doesn’t need the bearing/seal. Like I said, I haven’t examined them up close and personal.
May 5, 2017 at 12:25 am #57116Frank,
Thanks for the help I sure respect your knowledge of outboards. I couldn’t figure out why that cup seal would be present on the 75 carb then not present on the 85 and not present on the 91 but the 91 was way different in its make-up than the 75 and 85. Then on the 95 they totally plugged off the mixture screw on front of carb and put it on the side.Joe
May 5, 2017 at 12:49 am #57117My intensely superficial research suggests the change was made starting ’79…
May 5, 2017 at 1:10 am #57118Retiredoz,
you may be right . I am guessing your talking about the cup seal being not used in 79? I do know that it seems like the carb was changed 3 times in a serious way for basically the same power head that was used on 9.9s from like 75 to 91ish to 95ish other than the ignition systems going from points in the 75 then 85 and 91 were also different from each oher I am guessing both were a type of cdi type set-up for 85 and 91. I couldn’t tell much of a difference when setting up the motors regarding ignition systems other than getting the timing of the carb butterfly opening at the correct time with relation to the magneto plate rotation. The big difference to me on slow engine idle was how well the 95 carb performed much better than the 75 85 and 91 carbs.
May 5, 2017 at 5:39 am #57136 -
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.