Home Forum Ask A Member 1979 Johnson 35 Upper Motor Mount

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  • #2665
    hidditt
    Participant

      There seems to be excessive front to back movement in my long shaft 35 Johnson (1979) controlled by the rubber vibration isolating mounts. This is a tilt motion a bit like power trim motion – maybe 5 degrees of play. It is a bit disconcerting to watch the the power head "bend back" as power is put on, not to mention the change in the tilt setting.

      The motor mount seems OK (hard to see it clearly – no separation is evident) but it doesn’t seemed to be attached to anything on the rear facing stud. The upper rubber mount doesn’t move at all when the motor is flexed. The nut is still on the rear stud of that rubber mount. The rear stud with nut seems to be clearing the attachment point on the – steering arm?

      Is there an easy dis-assembly process to get at the upper rubber mount (original part 0304800) and have a closer look?

      Thanks for your comments.

      PS. I recall an article by Joe McCauley on Johnnyrude motor mounts. My copy is not to be found though.

      #24832
      johnyrude200
      Participant

        Those motor mounts, along with the port and SB side mounts, are basically molded rubber with a square metal base and stud that the bolts tie into. They shrink, dry out, and break/split all the time. It’s like your windshield wipers, the rubber vulcanizes and they they’re done. I’m more impressed that they last for decades in some cases. I wish my windshield wipers lasted more than 6 months. And the price to buy new ones is absolutely ridiculous.

        To get at all three you have to take the swivel bracket off. It’s a relatively simple disassembly.

        There are 4 screws at the bottom, two in the front, two on the port side. Hopefully the two port side screws aren’t stuck from salt water. They stick a lot up here in the northeast. You’ll need a long reach socket to remove them. There are two bolts, one on each side of the motor that you can wrench off. Don’t be surprised if the studs don’t twist off or break during removal. The last one is the front/bow side nut which you should be able to access via a ratchet and two extensions (or a long).

        Once all are removed, you’ll have to use force to yank the thing off because they are wedged into the 3 studs (near the top of the motor). If it falls off, then you’ll know pretty quick which ones are no good.

        If you have broken ones, go find a junk motor from 1957-2006 (18, 20, 25, 28, 30, 35hp of any of these years utilize the same ones), the motor mounts are all the same. Don’t pay more than $25 for a junker, and cannibalize the ones you need!

        The front motor mount seems to change the most depending on age, weather exposure, etc. That one will literally shrink down by 25%, then it separates, or the bolts break, or whatever, but when you try to reinstall things or tighten down that nut,it will just split in half or break if it is already on it’s way out.

        A shaky motor may not seem very evident until you pull that steering bracket off. But is sure makes a big difference in vibrations of course!

        #25053
        hidditt
        Participant

          Thank you for the words of wisdom regarding getting access to the upper motor mount on the 35 Johnson.

          The dis- assembly activity went very well – threaded parts were very co-operative! The root cause of the excessive flex was a separated upper motor mount assembly . The upper side mounts were starting to go too, so I have ordered new parts all around.

          Appreciate your support as always.

          #25057
          johnyrude200
          Participant

            As a follow up, when you go to put the bracket back on that can be annoying/frustrating. Here’s a trick that works well for me. Get 1 side of the bracket started and lightly tighten the bolt maybe 2 turns (so you will still have some play).

            Now get the middle bolt/grommet lined up and in place. It will still be pretty wobbly.

            Now take a long flat head screwdriver and basically pry the other side of the bracket up and over the other side mount. It will all just snap into place.

            Once lined up, now you can nudge things to their exact location and the rest is clockwork. You might want to get the 3 bolts with the grommets at least snugged down before doing the ones at the bottom of the swivel bracket.

            Getting the center nut back on the stud is the hardest part, it takes a little patience and long reach needle nose pliers, once it’s started on the threads (which is finesse at first), you should be home-free.

            #26246
            hidditt
            Participant

              (Testing to see if I can put a photo on the Discussion Forum). Seem to have the URL working, but not a direct picture on the forum. Oh well, gave it a try.

              Here is the 1979 35 with new motor mounts on a Glen-L Tuffy.

              http://imgur.com/l4ampqz

              http://imgur.com/l4ampqz

              #26263
              johnyrude200
              Participant

                looks great, now if only I could get my ’78 version to stop leaking exhaust into the water jacket, it’d be great!

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