Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1982-83 gamefisher 9.9
- This topic has 11 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 2 months, 3 weeks ago by
seakaye12.
-
AuthorPosts
-
June 8, 2025 at 6:39 pm #297162
I just got a 9..9 gamefisher that wouldn’t run. All the basics checked out good so I rebuilt the carb and noticed the red bladder in the back of the carb had a tear in it. I really don’t know what this does, but I replaced it. The motor started right up and ran great. I thought I had the problem solved. When I put it in gear and tried to give it throttle, it bogged down. I can’t understand why it boggs down in gear but not in neutral. I am not familiar with this motor so I would appreciate some advice. Thanks.
June 9, 2025 at 10:46 am #297175That is the ESKA water-cooled outboard?
Are you running on two cylinders? Maybe just one?
A word of caution on those: DO NOT ever rope the engine over with the spark plug wires disconnected. Very easy to damage ignition components. A good practice on any engine….but especially on those.
If both cylinders are firing….what you describe would typically be a lean running condition.
June 9, 2025 at 5:34 pm #297182Have you inspected the lower unit gear box to be sure
nothing is causing it to turn harder than it should?Prepare to be boarded!
June 9, 2025 at 6:49 pm #297184seakaye12 Thanks again for helping me out. Yes, this is a eska water cooled. It has a pee hole from the powerhead and is working fine , also water is coming out of vents in the exhaust housing so I am assuming the impeller is ok. How do I determine if both cylinders are firing? I already checked the spark on both spark plug wires with my timing gun. I could try the timing gun when it is running, maybe that will tell me something. I think Buccaneer might have the answer that the problem might be resistance from the lower end. I have hesitated to get into the lower end due to people saying it is a pain to get back together. Also I don’t know how much the young boy wants to put into this motor. I always try the simplest things first. keep the ideas coming.thanks
June 9, 2025 at 6:56 pm #297185Buccaneer, thanks for the info. I think you have a good idea. Any way to check the lower end without pulling it. I am not familiar with this motor and don’t want to get in over my head.If it was one of my own I wouldn’t hesitate. That being said I’ll probably pull it as soon as I get time. thanks
June 9, 2025 at 9:52 pm #297186Buccaneer, thanks for the info. I think you have a good idea. Any way to check the lower end without pulling it. I am not familiar with this motor and don’t want to get in over my head.If it was one of my own I wouldn’t hesitate. That being said I’ll probably pull it as soon as I get time. thanks
Perhaps the easiest thing would just be to take the cover off
the gearcase for inspection to look for obvious problems,
such as “rust” instead of grease, etc.
I don’t have a manual and it’s not a motor I would normally
work on, so I don’t have any specifics.Prepare to be boarded!
June 10, 2025 at 6:13 pm #297206thanks Buccaneer, I’ll give it a shot.
June 10, 2025 at 6:59 pm #297207You can also tell just by turning the flywheel clockwise while it is in gear….and then in neutral. There should not be a big difference in resistance.
You probably cannot use the recoil starter for this test because there is likely a lock-out to prevent starting while in gear. But you can just rotate the flywheel by hand.
June 11, 2025 at 7:04 pm #297246seakaye12, I rotated the flywheel in neutral and in gear and couldn’t feel a difference. I also rotated the propeller in gear and it felt like any other evinrude or johnson I have dealt with. I drained the lower end and the fluid was in great shape. I am really dragging my feet on pulling the lower end since everything seems normal. the lower end is one piece so I can’t take the bottom cover off to check the gears. I want to go back to what you mentioned initially about a lean running condition. there is an adjustable needle valve with a spring on it but it has a keeper on it that does not allow adjustment over 3/4 turns unless you take the keeper off. I can mess with that a little. Can the electronic ignition have anything to do with the problem? When I run the motor in the barrel, in both forward and reverse I can tell that the propeller is working correctly, but when I give it gas, it boggs down. Maybe I need to redo the carb? I am stumped, but I think the problem is simple. Can you think of anything else. thanks
June 15, 2025 at 10:35 am #297337Sorry Craig; I’ve been out of town.
Well; you’ve made progress. It seems that a binding gearcase is not your issue. I would re-visit whether the engine is firing on both cylinders or just one. Normally one would do that by disconnecting the spark plug wires one cylinder at a time and see if anything changes. But I would NOT do it that way on your engine because of the issues it could cause with the electronic ignition. NEVER rope over or run the engine with either of the wires disconnected from the spark plug.
You could use one of the digital thermometers and measure the cylinder head temp top and bottom….or just feel the temp with your hand.
Or…you have a lean fuel mixture. Re-do the carburetor. See if that helps.
Chuck
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.