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does this help
25_35_82-83_elec-remote.jpg (1600×1648)
for the stuck FW nut I find that a 1/4″ impact wrench is helpful. apply some wd40 to soak the threads . I have used Dupont teflon spray for snowblowers to work great on stuck nuts. It is a very thin clear spray and capillary action soaks in quickly.
sometimes when they don’t come out a quick torque shot clockwise then reverse will work
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OK, the only way the engine would run is if you swapped plug leads. I watched the video, more on that in a bit. Swapping powerpacks shouldn’t have affected anything wiring wise, the plugs simply plug in, no individual wires to mess with. The first thing I would do is look at the diagram that was posted, notice the three wire connected that has the orange coil wires. Notice that the number one/top coil orange lead should be connected to the orange lead with the blue tracer coming from the powerpack. If not, perhaps either the powerpack or the coil leads are in the wrong positions on the rubber amphenol connectors. If that looks OK, then I would look at the four wire connector with the brown leads and the black and white leads. Make sure all the colors line up in the connectors.
Yes, changing the powerpack should not have affected any of this. Did you use a new powerpack, or used one? If it was used, perhaps someone had messed with the wiring. Or, perhaps someone had messed with the wiring on your original powerpack. Compare the three pin plugs on both powerpacks to see if the wires are in the same positions.
Finally, the video shows that the engine is spitting lean causing that miss. The first place to start with with basic syncronization. The carb throttle must be completely closed at dead idle speed, and must begin to open at just the right time. There is also that economizer linkage on the side of the engine that might be misadjusted, holding the throttle plan open… Or perhaps the carburetor linkage is damaged holding the throttle plate open. This is where to begin, check your initial low speed needle setting as well.
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OK, so you swapped the coil wires in the amphenol rubber connector. Good job getting those out of there without the special tools! Be very careful with those connectors, do not put grease or lubricant inside in an effort to make it easier to to assemble. Use rubbing alcohol as the lubricant, it will evaporate.
You may just have to richen up the idle mixture to get it to run OK at lower speeds.
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I may have to mess with the synchronization some because the previous owner gave me a new old stock carb that I put on, its not stuttering as bad now that I have richened it some. Any base settings for the synchronization I should try? Its getting throttle a little to late I believe that why I say that.
Yes, there are some basic syncronization things to check, a little tough to describe with words but will try
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