Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1983 Evinrude 15 Driveshaft Removal
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Don.
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April 9, 2026 at 8:47 am #314670
Attempting to replace the impeller on a 1982 Evinrude 15 (E15RCNC). When I drop the gearbox, the drive shaft does not come with it (as it does in all of the videos that I’ve watched about doing this). The drive shaft releases from the gearbox but remains in the powerhead on the other end of the shaft. That end is covered by a housing. (See photos). When I remove the housing I can see where the drive shaft enters the lower part of the power unit. There’s a snap ring. I figured it was holding the drive shaft and preventing it from coming free from the powerhead? I removed the snap ring and expected the drive shaft to then come out. But it does not.
This is a problem because, from all the instructional videos I see, when it’s time to install the new impeller, you slide it down the drive shaft, THEN you take the locating pin with a dab of grease and apply it to the groove on the drive shaft. Then you slide the gearbox onto the drive shaft until the locating pin goes into the groove in the new impeller. Then you’re done!
I’ve been puzzling on this for days now and I can’t figure out a solution. I’m older now and feeling my age. But I’ve been working on engines and motorcycles and cars since I was a kid so I’m not complete newbie. My first thought is that the drive shaft must just be “stuck” in the powerhead. So I put a crescent wrench into the groove on the drive shaft so that I could use a hammer to gently tap on it to see if I could get the drive shaft to release from the powerhead. No luck.
I don’t know what to do next. I really thought the snap ring was the solution and that removing it would let the drive shaft come out of the powerhead. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance. Matt.
April 9, 2026 at 10:15 am #314686OK, that snap ring secures the lower crank bearing in place, not the driveshaft. So yes, the splines have rusted, the crank and driveshaft splines are seized together. That housing is the lower crankcase seal housing and oring. For now, I would slide it back into place to avoid getting any debris on that lower bearing. At least, pack that cavity with clean rags anyway. I would remove that inner exhaust housing, you will want to check and replace those water tube grommets anyway….
Now, I would clamp the driveshaft in a large vise with the powerhead hanging upside down below the vise. Rig up some sort of shims/blocks so you can apply wedge pressure between the bottom of the powerhead and vise pushing downwards on the powerhead. (have something directly near/below the powerhead so it doesn’t fall far when the splines releas…
I would get a decent air hammer directed to the side of the driveshaft while applying downward pressure on the powerhead, this usually does the trick. This is a two person job, be careful not to damage the machined surfaces of the powerhead while prying by using some sort of heavy metal spacer between the base of the powerhead and pry bar.
Once the powerhead has separated, you will want to clean the internal splines of the driveshaft completely, make sure they are not badly worn. I would replace the lower seal (there may be two seals in there if there is no oring/groove on the driveshaft), oring and snap ring as well.
Be sure to replace the driveshaft oring and lube the splines with OMC moly lube before reinstalling the gearcase….
Again, if you engine has an overheat issue, this may indeed be caused by crushed upper water tube grommets….
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