Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 28th ELTO Pal!
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JACQUES.
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December 23, 2025 at 4:08 pm #302544
Today I was fortunate to become the owner of the 28th ELTO Pal ever made, serial no 4203-00028(Oldest known?). I did not do a deep imnpection of the motor itself until I got home, at which point I found a few problems. the lower unit skeg as seen in the pictures is far from perfect (replacement-worthy?), and the gears inside are somewhat usable, but are very rusty and need a lot of refinishing. the crankshaft seems to be dragging somewhere because it turns over rough even with the lower unit completely detached and a bunch of wd-40 in the crankcase. The gas tank is Ok but dented, the driveshaft housing is good, the transom clamp is good, the carb is OK(would work after some tweaking), the exhaust tube is very bent and dented(around 1″ deviation from where it should be), and there is no spark. There is a chance that the resistance is inside the flywheel, but I am unable to take it off until later. All in all, it is a very rough motor. Should I be trying to keep it original as possible( AKA salvaging slightly sketchy gears), or should I just keep everything on the outside original and replace any internal parts that are not quite functional? I am also uncertain as to weather or not I should replace the lower unit housing as it is in rough shape. I’m additionally on the fence about whether I should keep it in rough but original shape or give it a good restoration.
Any thoughts are appreciated, and I understand that it is my motor and consequently my decision, but given the potential significance of how early it is, I want to make the best decision possible about this motor and appreciate opinions regardless of how subjective they are.
"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."
December 23, 2025 at 7:50 pm #302569The skeg is broken. To me all the model 4203’s are the same, whether its the first or last, lol. At any rate, Pals are plentiful so finding a replacement lower unit shouldn’t be hard. Exchange the entire lower unit and you probably won’t have to worry about gears. Those gears are mild steel and once they get heavily rust pitted, its debatable an whether they’re still useful or not. For the amount of work that it takes, I suggest completely disassembling the motor, this will allow you to do proper inspections and evaluations and eliminates guess work.
On that particular motor, I guess the defining feature that would cause me to keep it original is how good the gas tank paint & deck-el are. If they are wiped out or unreadable, then you can refinish the thing from head to toe without hurting anything. Unless you want to preserve bent or broken parts and call it “patina”. The tiller handle and grip look pretty good tho, they are worth saving as-is. The grip is likely to be brittle so don’t get too rambunctious about twisting it to try and pull it off the tiller bar. The exhaust pipe can probably be salvaged, but its likely that you can buy a length of new tubing from McMaster-Carr and replace it. Or scam one from the same parts donor motor that you get a lower unit from.
PM T2
He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
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December 23, 2025 at 10:42 pm #302576
Actually, not all the 4203’s the same. There are some variations on the early motors and #28 would be an early motor. One is the location of the gas cap. Yours appears to be at the front of the tank, as it should be, where most Pal tanks have it at the rear. Fox Grips, on eBay, has the correct top decal for the (your?) early tank. Lower unit gears – usable is what you’ll find in most of these that are still being run. Shimming the prop shaft gear can be helpful but if you listen these things they have a noticeable gear wine. Here is a video link that should answer most of you questioned on the 2 different lower units –https://youtu.be/GXrGse7_s5Y?si=jMjdbz6nNqZpuPAH – All 4203’s should have the carburetors with the banjo fitting. Here is a link to the 2 different carburetors and any service that may be necessary – https://youtu.be/WjH1UVFcdKY?si=Z7C6fM3bcNv5c8z9 – I’m afraid to add any more links as I believe that is what makes stuff go poof.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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December 23, 2025 at 10:47 pm #302577
Here is a link to a video on the magneto that covers the lost spark issue these often have. https://youtu.be/Sn0b0o_tJxQ?si=meCC8YXjb74K7_zu I need to complete the one I’ve started on how to make an improved, thick wall, exhaust pipe to replace the thin wall one that dents so easily. Really easy to do. I also have this video from this summer I need to get finished.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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December 24, 2025 at 6:51 pm #302604There was absolutely no continuity of any sort through the secondary when measured with a multimeter, and the points I measured from were exposed metal on the point where the plug wire comes out and the wire leading to it from the points. Unless I am wrong about where to measure for some continuity in the secondary, I believe that this motor will require a coil swap. Don’t need information on the military coil swap as I’ve already done one on a similar sportsman coil, unless there are any further tips for making he process smoother.
Happy holdays
"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."
December 25, 2025 at 10:00 am #302605looking at the picture (upside down)…. if that is the broken skeg in question and the gears are or seem ok you could just rebuild the skeg tip with JB weld… see pic of my rebuilt skeg on my 75hp ETEC ..a $10 version of a 300$ weld job. $300 convinced me to give it a try and now after a coulple of years the repairs have held up. Not perfect some would say and ” touching” a rock would not see it survive but I could always fix it again cheap..
I just clamped a 6 inch gyproc spatula on one side of the skeg and filled up with JB , sanded the repairs and painted ETEC blue … I was satisfied with my repairs..!
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