Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 38 Elto Pal Spark
- This topic has 16 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 5 months ago by
jerry-ahrens.
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February 13, 2016 at 2:14 pm #31877
Anonymous
Jerry, I guess my question should be is the NAPA AL869 condenser within a reasonable range to work on the Pal. I don’t know how the previous owner arrived at using that condenser … and perhaps that is why the motor had no spark when I bought it 9 years ago. When it warms up a bit I’ll try that 0.1 uF radio shack condenser. (it is about 40 degrees in my garage & 14 degrees outside… I’ve been in the south to long for that low of temp.)
As for the gap … when the points are at the low point of the cam on the crankshaft, they are making good contact (tested with meter) and the points have a healthy gap the rest of the way around the crankshaft cam (tested – no continunity).
As for the wiring, it all appears to be as good as new and test out OK. I am stumped if it isn’t that NAPA condenser. I may take it along to Bob Grub’s meet in two weeks to see if someone there can figure it out.
Thanks for the suggestions!
February 13, 2016 at 2:19 pm #31878A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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This reply was modified 6 years, 9 months ago by
Tubs.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by
Tubs.
February 13, 2016 at 4:25 pm #31886Yes I would think that your condenser should give a spark. If the condenser has the wrong capacitance rating for your particular application, it may burn up the points prematurely. You mentioned that you have a healthy gap when the points are open? They should be set at .020 when fully open. Any wider gap than this will cause weak spark or none at all. I’m sure you are aware of this already, but I didn’t see you mention your point gap setting.
If you don’t have a spark tester, grab an old spark plug and bend open the gap, or break off the little arm on the end of the plug and ground it to the motor block. This makes a good ”make shift” spark tester. As I said, the ignitions on those little motors are extremely dependable. You could have a faulty coil etc, but I doubt it.February 13, 2016 at 5:32 pm #31896Anonymous
Jerry, you may have something I overlooked. I did not check the "fully open" gap and "wrongfully assumed" fully open would not be a problem. I’ll go back and set the fully open to .20" and check it. I’ll report the results. Many thanks!!!
February 14, 2016 at 5:44 pm #31970Anonymous
Jerry, I reset the breaker points to 0.020" and unfortunately nothing. Guess I am back to square one.
As a side note … some time ago Bill Salisbury gave me a little tip that I found useful … rather than wires or clamps for grounding a spark plug use a powerful small (1/2" dia) magnet from a hobby store to ground spark plugs removed from the motor during testing.
March 14, 2016 at 1:36 am #33405Anonymous
Just a brief follow up. Bob Grubb has a very methodical and experienced approach to such issues. He nailed it! The coil ground wire looked like it was secure … but it was not. Pal lives on!
March 14, 2016 at 2:02 am #33409Great! Glad you got it going.
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