Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 40/48/50 gearcase driveshaft removal
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beerman57.
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July 21, 2016 at 6:10 am #4806
Hello All,
Getting ready to pull apart one of these gearcases to replace a blown gearset. Looking through the service manual I see the driveshaft and pinion are married together with a taper and could call for using a special tool to separate the two (after removing the pinion gear nut first).
Are there any good tricks to do this if you DON’T have this tool? I may be lucky and have one that I haven’t used yet (as in, the special tool) in my salvage bin from some marinas I’ve cleared out which I haven’t seen. But just in case, any alternatives? Looks like a puller that ties into the impeller recess, than pushes against the upper gearcase housing against a simple plate.
I’m guessing constructing such a thing out of wood wound not be feasible given the force application necessary and fatigue factor of wood to reproduce the metal pullers job.
Thanks
July 21, 2016 at 9:37 am #40620These pinion tapers are never as tight as flywheel tapers. Usually, I can just jam something between the loose pinion nut (leave it in place loose to ensure you don’t bung up the driveshaft threads) and clutch dog, then rap on the prop shaft with a heavy plastic mallet, to pop the driveshaft tapers loose.
July 21, 2016 at 11:03 am #40622I just converted an ’84’ Johnson 40hp to short shaft and had no problem at all getting the driveshaft out.
July 21, 2016 at 2:02 pm #40632Another way to remove the driveshaft from the housing is first remove the pinion nut of course. Next place the driveshaft in a vice horizontally and let the housing but up next to the vice. Take a 2X4 and place it against the housing, then take a hammer and give the board a good "rap" and the housing will pop the pinion gear off of the end of the driveshaft.
Hope this helps,
RickJuly 21, 2016 at 9:17 pm #40648quote rickrodt:Another way to remove the driveshaft from the housing is first remove the pinion nut of course. Next place the driveshaft in a vice horizontally and let the housing but up next to the vice. Take a 2X4 and place it against the housing, then take a hammer and give the board a good “rap” and the housing will pop the pinion gear off of the end of the driveshaft.Hope this helps,
RickX2!
July 21, 2016 at 9:46 pm #40649I usually hold the gear case up by the drive shaft vertically in one hand and hit the center of the side of the shaft with a small hammer, half way between the top of the spline and the case. That is usually enough to dislodge it. I am not talking about a bending, hell-bent blow, just a shock wave-inducing, moderate tap. Be advised that the gear case will drop; so plan on not dropping it more than an inch or two!
Long live American manufacturing!
July 21, 2016 at 10:52 pm #40652all good info and much appreciated. I found out today (the hard way) that a 2000 50hp gearcase has a different driveshaft than a 1994 50hp gearcase. Apparently the cranks are different too, because the diameter of the newer driveshaft is larger than that of the older. So, no-go on the transplant of parts. But I will end up utilizing all these helpful tips in the future, I know it!
July 21, 2016 at 11:17 pm #40656Which motor are you working on, the 2000 or 1994? It’s possible my 40hp D/S (20") would fit the 1994 motor.
July 21, 2016 at 11:59 pm #406662000, but always interested in parts!
July 22, 2016 at 12:01 am #40667A quick check of a 50hp 1994 E50TLER shows #438398 15" shaft & #438399 20" shaft. Same shaft for a J50PLSS. Evinrude was only making DFI motors by then. Those engines may be carrying the 3 cylinder gearcase. (Much larger gearcase). Not sure what you are running into, but the driveshaft/crankshaft didn’t change on the basic 2 cylinder engine. Are you comparing a std. engine to a commercial model? The commercial engines had the 3 cylinder type bigger gearcase, but the crank would be the same.
Dan in TN
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