Home Forum Ask A Member 47′ Johnson TD 20 Carb parts

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #259473
    second wind
    Participant

      Looking for carb parts for my Johnson TD 20 (Seals and packing and float) I am assuming I will need to make the gaskets? Trying to do an initial start after recent purchase, good 70 plus lb. compression both cylinders and decent spark, cleaned tank etc. Fuel dumping out of carb when fuel valve was opened.  Your time and consideration is greatly appreciated.

      Best regards,

      Neal

      #259474
      crosbyman
      Participant

        Canada Member

        leather  seals needed  for the  pump… float  can be rebuilt using Mercury floats   gaskets… when maybe you can cut them up

        the  float check valve  and screen need  a check up  see poche family site

        Basic Carburetor Servicing Johnson H and T Series (pochefamily.org)

         

         

         

         

         

        Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

        • This reply was modified 3 years ago by crosbyman.
        1 user thanked author for this post.
        #259477
        Buccaneer
        Participant

          US Member

          There are some good tips on this site about those carbs if you haven’t
          already seen it……..
          http://www.pochefamily.org/outboard/CarbService.html

          I’ve used old wine corks, etc., for replacement floats. Lots of corks on
          Ebay. I bought a bag of assorted floats a few years back.

          Yes to making gaskets. I doubt if anyone is reproducing those.

          Prepare to be boarded!

          #259478
          second wind
          Participant

            Many thanks

            #259487
            Tubs
            Participant



              It can be a real challenge to get a good seal
              at the needle and seat to keep this carb from
              running over. Look for witness marks on the
              side of the float bowl for indications that this
              has been a problem in the past. The hole for
              the pin needs to be as close as possible to
              the center of the cork so the pin isn’t being
              pushed off center in the float bowl.
              Tubs
              .

              A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

              #259515
              lloyd
              Participant

                US Member

                Lots of good info on the Poche website. I helped him make the site many years ago.  But please note that the ad there for my new leather primer seals and installation instructions is many years old. I had to raise the price some years ago as it is getting difficult to find new proper leather.  Price is now $10.00  (US cash only. No checks or MO’s.  plus a self addressed stamped envelope). I just made up a fresh batch a few weeks ago.

                #259550
                aquasonic
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Tubs makes a good point regarding the importance of a well centered float. A dirty float needle and seat can also cause the float to stick in the down position. When you take the carburetor apart for cleaning and rebuild, the needle can be polished up to a shine with Never-Dull or other metal polish. The seat can be cleaned with Q-tips after a good soak in your  choice of carb cleaner.

                  After working on a number of these carburetors, instead of trying to refinish and reuse the old floats, I wish that I had just used the modified Mercury floats. The hole for the needle is already made and centered. It just needs to be slightly enlarged. The float is made of ethanol resistant nitrophyl, and should last a long time.

                  • This reply was modified 3 years ago by aquasonic.
                  • This reply was modified 3 years ago by aquasonic.
                Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
                • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.