Home Forum Ask A Member 49 or 50 Sea King 94GG9014A – Points Gap, Ignition?

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #280037
    John Gragg
    Participant

      US Member

      Hello All,

      So I have the flywheel off of my motor after running a spark check with negative results on both cylinders.

      Both sets of points appear to be set at .020 (or very close to it). I am not ready to start taking the ignition apart yet, so the condition of the points is up for debate for now.  The top end looks really good though, take a look at the pics.  The coils look okay to me . There are a couple of tiny spots of rust in places I don’t think matter but no melting or other damage up top that I can see.

      Full disclosure, the last time I messed with a small engine was in ’71 or ’72 (13 years old) when I rebuilt our Sears Lawnmower.  So it’s not like I “Know” what I’m looking for.

      I have read dozens of posts on this site trying to familiarize myself with some of the procedures for these older motors.

      I have rotated the crank and watched for spark from the points. No dice. I even remembered (I think I did it right) that the advance plate must be fully advanced to properly measure the timing of the points opening/closing? Seems like they are opening “Just” before TDC on each cylinder. Both sets are opening each time each cylinder hits TDC. Is this correct?

      May I ask for some information on what I need to test on the coils/condensers? I am especially asking about the conversations about primary/secondary resistance measurments (I think that terminology is correct?). I have a meter, and know how to use it fairly well so a fairly simple set of instructions on what to measure and what to expect will help.

      Let me know what you think of the pictures?

       

      Best Regards,

      John Gragg

      Riverside, CA

      John Gragg
      RIverside, CA

      Just starting in the hobby, please be patient.

      48 Sea King 5hp GG9014A. Sold
      49 Sea King 5hp GG9014A
      48 Johnson TD20. Sold
      49 Johnson TD20. Sold
      54 Johnson QD15. Sold
      55 Johnson CD12. Sold
      57 Johnson RJE-19M
      57 Johnson RDE-19

      #280042
      John Gragg
      Participant

        US Member

        A few more pics to help…

        Thanks Again

        John Gragg
        RIverside, CA

        Just starting in the hobby, please be patient.

        48 Sea King 5hp GG9014A. Sold
        49 Sea King 5hp GG9014A
        48 Johnson TD20. Sold
        49 Johnson TD20. Sold
        54 Johnson QD15. Sold
        55 Johnson CD12. Sold
        57 Johnson RJE-19M
        57 Johnson RDE-19

        #280056
        frankr
        Participant

          US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

          It is a 1949.  Looks pretty good.  Throttle (advance plate) position makes no difference when setting points.  In fact, put that timing question out of your mind.  As for your specific questions, primary resistance should be around an Ohm.  Secondary should be a few k-Ohms.    Now for the scary part: (Not really).  Most of those systems will be just fine with a thorough cleaning of the points.  By that, I mean remove them from the motor and take them apart, degrease everything, and polish each contact individually.  Do one set at a time so you have a sample of how they go back together, and don’t lose any of the small insulator pieces.  Reassemble and set the gaps at 0.020″ at their widest opening.  I’ll bet you will have spark.

          BTW, I suspect somebody has already been messing around in there.  Get back with us if the points theory doesn’t work out.

           

           

          #280057
          HARRY D. NICHOLSON
          Participant

            US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

            Nice pictures.  Your contact points look terribly filthy. They need to be cleaned. I use 400 then 600 grit sandpaper to get a near mirror finish. Disassembly of the points assemblies is needed. Make a diagram of the assembly sequence and where things belong (insulators etc). Use minimum lube on the pushrod. The flat end of the pushrod rides on the crank.

            #280084
            John Gragg
            Participant

              US Member

              Here are a couple of pics. I was able to shine up the points for Cyl 2. I have a before and after of one side, and a before of the other. Somehow I didn’t get the after of the 2nd side, but it looks just as good at the 1st side, if not better.

              Installed, gapped at .020 and tested. ZERO spark. Not even an attempt at a spark.

              I guess it’s on to checking the coil?

              I’m guessing the primary side is the two wires (green) coming out of the back of the coil and the secondary is one green wire and the solder joint shown? (Where the Plug Wire is attached to the coil?)

              Thanks –

              John Gragg
              RIverside, CA

              Just starting in the hobby, please be patient.

              48 Sea King 5hp GG9014A. Sold
              49 Sea King 5hp GG9014A
              48 Johnson TD20. Sold
              49 Johnson TD20. Sold
              54 Johnson QD15. Sold
              55 Johnson CD12. Sold
              57 Johnson RJE-19M
              57 Johnson RDE-19

              #280089
              John Gragg
              Participant

                US Member

                couple more pics for clarity

                 

                John Gragg
                RIverside, CA

                Just starting in the hobby, please be patient.

                48 Sea King 5hp GG9014A. Sold
                49 Sea King 5hp GG9014A
                48 Johnson TD20. Sold
                49 Johnson TD20. Sold
                54 Johnson QD15. Sold
                55 Johnson CD12. Sold
                57 Johnson RJE-19M
                57 Johnson RDE-19

                #280093
                John Gragg
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Tested the coil on cyl 2.

                  Primary = Starts at about 3.6ohms the slowly drops to zero. Points are closed, I assume that is the correct way to test?

                  Secondary = 3.745K on both sides

                  Seakaye left me a link to an excellent document to test the coil and points. I followed that to the letter and everything tests out fine. Only question is the points and the coil Primary test both take 4 or 5 seconds to get to a zero reading. I am using an old Radio Shack Digital Multimeter, not sure if that has anything to do with this?

                  Any ideas on where to go next?

                   

                  Thanks!

                  John Gragg
                  RIverside, CA

                  Just starting in the hobby, please be patient.

                  48 Sea King 5hp GG9014A. Sold
                  49 Sea King 5hp GG9014A
                  48 Johnson TD20. Sold
                  49 Johnson TD20. Sold
                  54 Johnson QD15. Sold
                  55 Johnson CD12. Sold
                  57 Johnson RJE-19M
                  57 Johnson RDE-19

                  #283742
                  MARC A. HAMER
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    Hi John,
                    more of a Johnson guy..   it’s pretty straightforward, it’s probably running by now.  The old stuff needs soo much work!
                    welcome and see you this Summer at your meet.  Thanks

                    marc hamer

                    #283743
                    aquasonic
                    Participant

                      Still no spark. The solder connections at the coil buttons look to be factory, so the primaries haven’t been overheated from resoldering. I’m not sure why the primary starts at 3.6 ohms, then goes to zero.

                      Going back to the points, there are tiny, and prone to get lost, insulators that go around the threaded part of the two screws that hold the point halves together. They resemble tiny cut pieces of tubing and are not very visible on assembled points. These insulators prevent the tiny screws from making an electrical connection from one side of the points to the other side. Without the insulators the effect would be that the points open mechanically, but not electrically resulting in no spark. Just one of many things to check.

                      Improvise-Adapt-Overcome

                      #283744
                      dave-bernard
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        All that being said, I would change the condensers or make them from capacitors.

                      Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
                      • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.